​A plug-in application fills in the gap where a host application falls short, or it gives you an easier way to do things or otherwise expands your digital editing universe.
 
Nik software was once my go-to for many effects in the plug-ins cosmos. In my workflow, plug-ins enter the picture by way of Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop, but mostly Lightroom.
 
Then, at some point in the timeline, Google decided to swallow up Nik, the way a black hole swallows up surrounding space, phased out parts of it, and bundled other parts as the Google Nik Collection. And before anyone knew it, Google took the next step and made the bundled software free. That, in my view, spelled the death knell for Nik, which, once a nova, is now a dying star. And the fact is, we are no longer seeing support in terms of updates for the software, which has begun to fade and show its age. I won’t stop using it, but, without support – meaning regular updates, a new OS (operating system) will likely herald the demise of this software sooner or later, as has happened with software apps in years past. The plug-ins cosmos is ever changing.
 
So it was time to find a viable substitute. After all, why wait till the last minute? It takes time to learn, let alone master, new software. And I wasn’t about to be caught with my proverbial pants down.

Finding a Replacement
Nik software offers something no one else does, namely, control points. And if you’ve ever sampled them, you know how delectable they are, letting you add just the right amount of flavor and texture.
 
Still, one has to move on. When you put down a favored pet, you eventually find one to replace it. It might never be the same, but over time it keeps you happy and helps you forget.
 
And I expect that will be true of Macphun’s Creative Kit. I’m not crazy about all the apps, which, again, I used strictly as plug-ins primarily in Lightroom. But they do provide enough satisfaction that I expect to keep them around and use many of them.
 
The ratings: a strong like or dislike has an exclamation point following the verdict (“Use it!”; "Skip it!"); a period denotes the app has its good and bad points, but is useful (“Use it.”); a question mark questions the efficacy of an app and indicates my ambivalence toward it, although you may find some redeeming qualities (“Use it?”)

​Creative Kit 2016 – App by App (Overall Verdict: Use It.)
My recommendation for the Creative Kit as a whole is based on the strengths of those apps that delivered consistently reliable and effectively creative results, with enough user settings that I was able to fine-tune each app as needed.
 
Each software application in the Creative Kit has “CK” added to the title, to distinguish it from the unbundled version. We’ll look at the strengths and weaknesses of each app individually.
 
I should point out one advantage to using the CK apps in standalone mode. Once you’re done with one app, you can seamlessly carry over the modified image to another app in the CK suite. That saves time and increases efficiency, creating a smoother workflow – and that’s worthy of consideration. Although, I should add that there is one flaw in this plan, as we’ll soon uncover.
 
But first let me point out that the interface from one to the next is similar, but not entirely or necessarily largely identical. It would be nice if Macphun standardized on the interface, considering all these apps have been bundled into one suite, sharing a number of features.
 
Specifically, there’s no uniformity when it comes to the location of the presets, from one app to the next across all Macphun apps. While Aurora HDR remains outside the mix of the Creative Kit, I don’t mind that it has a different look, but the same can’t be said for those apps that are part of the suite. Granted, bundling them was an apparent afterthought, but it would be nice if Macphun took the next big step to present a unified front. (I’m told some improvements are in store. However, I’m not privy to the extent of these enhancements, but would hope they’d extend to the interface.)
 
On the plus side, you can customize a preset and save it as your own preset. Each preset includes a density slider, to apply the effect at full or lesser strength.
 
Two of the apps support layers, while others support masking, except Noiseless. The masking functions are also not consistent among the Creative Kit applications, where they exist, and masks can’t be saved for future use. Worse still, if you were to use the standalone versions of these apps, the mask is not carried over from one to the next. You have to paint a fresh mask each time you plan to use one. Also, only Intensify and Tonality have fully functioning histograms, with clipping indicators and a full set of adjustment sliders.
 
When upgrading to Adobe Photoshop CC 2015.5, Adobe, in their infinite wisdom, forces you to re-install all the third-party plug-ins from scratch, which I refused to do until I was ready to upgrade to a new iMac. You can’t even import these plug-ins from another location (say an older version of the Plug-ins folder) in Preferences the way you could in the past.
 
So, long story short, my review is based largely on my experience with this set of plug-ins in Adobe Lightroom. And, while I did test the waters with the standalone apps, I prefer working in Lightroom first and foremost.
 
When working with each CK plug-in, I use the Edit in option in Lightroom (under “Photo” in the menu, or accessed via the mouse). When using Edit in with a RAW file, a new TIFF or JPEG file is first generated, so use Lightroom to make initial adjustments before generating this new file. All effects/editing in the plug-in are then applied to the newly created file, which is itself imported back into Lightroom complete with enhancements when you’re done. The original RAW file is never affected.

​Tonality CK. (Verdict: Use it!)
What it does: black-and-white conversion and film emulation.
 
I found this app inviting for the most part. Among the available settings are the usual suspects, namely color filters, tone curve and tonal adjustments, color temperature (yes, this affects the tonal outcome), vignetting, and split toning. You also get various structure settings to give the picture more texture and depth.
 
Two features that bring this app home for me are the Zone System display in the histogram and the ability to layer and paint effects, as well as add a graduated mask. The Zones fall a bit short at either end. Still, they do prove useful and can easily be adapted to your black-and-white workflow. The layering masks let you make adjustments locally – to selective parts of the picture, where needed. However, you can’t selectively leave the original colors in the picture, as you can with other apps.
 
The photo frames option is kind of lame and best avoided, unless and until Macphun can beef up this feature substantially. For starters, these are not frames but borders. And there’s no variability or even a realistic feel to them. A randomizing (random seed) function would be nice, with improvements as noted. By the way, if you’re looking for real frame effects, you can find them in the FX Photo Studio app, which is part of the suite.
 
To spice things up you can add a texture overlay, where you can set the blending mode and amount, using numerous textures. However, you can’t vary the pattern of the textures. Here, too, a random seed option would help immeasurably.
 
Everyone turns to a black-and-white plug-in/app for its film emulators. You may be disappointed on this score. I didn’t find the film emulators very realistic or broad enough in scope. If you want a more faithful look and more film options (especially if you’re into pushing and pulling black-and-white film), then go elsewhere. But you can overlook this failing, since I haven’t seen any film emulator convincingly imitate any film. So we can cut Tonality some slack in this area.
 
As a final note on film emulation and black-and-white conversion in this plug-in, the grain setting is adequate, although not very realistic. I would have preferred an additional setting that varies grain clumping (the Roughness setting in Lightroom). In the interim, I can simply add grain, with the precise qualities I want, after importing the image back into Lightroom.

​Intensify CK. (Verdict: Use It!)
What it does: adds structure and detail enhancements.
 
There are numerous settings for you to infuse the image with just the right amount of structure and detail, along with tonal adjustments.
 
A histogram with highlight and shadow clipping heads the adjustments palette. You can also paint in the effects and add a graduated adjustment filter. What’s more, Intensify supports layers, in the sense that you can layer one effect over the other. So, for example, you can add one effect to the background layer and paint a layer mask with a second effect (in a new layer) over another part of the frame.
 
While some of you may welcome the wide array of available presets, others, such as myself, find them just a bit too much. The available adjustments let you tailor the presets to your needs, and create your own custom presets. On the plus side, you can delete presets or move them into a new folder you created, which I’d label “junk folder” (in case you change your mind later). I would also like the option to rename the presets, so I could use more descriptive names that actually tell me what a certain preset does. This would apply to all the apps in the suite.

​Focus CK. (Verdict: Use It.)
What it does: lets you selectively blur parts of the image anywhere within the frame while bringing other parts more into focus.
 
There are five presets (Portrait, Nature, Architecture, Macro, Tilt-Shift) plus Custom. Each preset presents you with options to strengthen or soften focus. The mechanisms in place give you plenty to work with. However, just to clarify, Tilt-Shift does not emulate a tilt-shift lens. In fact, it’s misleading. What it is really is, the graduated filter mask is skewed at an angle. That’s it, thereby controlling focus/blur, not depth of field. You can skew any of the masks, I should point out.
 
In Custom, you paint a mask over the areas you want to retouch. To fine-tune the mask, use low Diameter and Hardness settings, then gently push outward or inward when painting or erasing. The process is tedious, but you can get some nice results with practice. I would have liked it if the paintbrush could have been adjusted for shape as well, since a rectangular brush would have helped considerably. And the paintbrush in general needs further refinement, down to one or two pixels.
 
Focus won’t pull the proverbial rabbit out of the hat. Meaning, if it’s not sharp, this won’t fix it. But, you know those situations where something in the same plane of focus competes with your subject? Well, this will apply a graduated mask so the sharpness tapers off naturally, when done right. You do have to be vigilant that the effect is gradual, not like falling off a cliff.

​FX Photo Studio CK. (Verdict: Use it.)
What it does: enhances the image with all kinds of color and tonal variations, but also adds picture frames and quasi-kaleidoscopic effects.
 
There are a number of fun effects here, many of which you’ll find, in one form or another, in Photoshop. My favorite is “Symmetry,” where the app mirrors the image in quasi-kaleidoscope fashion. As in other apps in the suite, you can edit the mask that you use to apply effects, invert it, and turn it on (applying effects to selected portions of the image) or off (applying the effect to the entire picture). Also, you can make selected adjustments to the settings used.
 
Unfortunately, you can’t edit all the parameters that you use. For instance, I might have liked to create a true kaleidoscopic image, but there are no settings that let me do that. Elsewhere, where a preset adds a vignette, you don’t have the option to modify the vignetting, even when the effect itself adds vignetting. The same applies to modifying flare ghosts and the array of colors in effects where splashes of color are added. In short, a complete palette of settings as found in Intensify would help tremendously, with additional settings for the esoteric and exotic effects added. To that add a randomizer (random seed) for utmost variability.
 
A couple of quirks that I’d uncovered, among them: (1) After making adjustments following masking, the mask clears. You can backtrack by undoing the steps and thereby restore the mask. So I recommend that you make adjustments first, mask second. (2) This app has a stability issue and has crashed on more than one occasion.
 
The bottom line? I like the app. I’d just like to see it elevated to the next level. I want not just effects I can do with Photoshop but a whole new set of effects involving fractals – to go where Photoshop can’t take you on its own, or at least not without a lot of user entanglements. And that’s especially important if I don’t step outside the Lightroom universe.

​Noiseless CK. (Verdict: Use It?)
What it does: noise removal.
Digital noise blurs detail. But, when done to excess, noise removal (NR) can blur the image even worse, to the point where the picture has a plastic toy quality. So there’s a fine line we have to tread. This plug-in has proved more effective with some images, less so for others, and in at least one instance that I tested, made things worse. It does offer some advantage over using Lightroom’s own NR filters, in that there are more ways to customize NR here. Of course, if you don’t use Lightroom, and especially if you’re shooting JPEGs, then this would be the way to go. This is often a better choice than using NR on JPEGs in camera, which later cannot be undone. Simply stated, if you’re unhappy with the results in Lightroom (or Photoshop), or if you shoot JPEGs, then try Noiseless, since you’ve already paid for it.

​Snapheal CK. (Verdict: Skip It!)
What it does: healing, cloning, and retouching tool.
This app hasn’t changed much, if at all, since it came out. I wasn’t thrilled with it then; I’m even less thrilled with it now. The process of healing and cloning is so time-consuming and laborious here that the app tries to entertain you with fun facts. The time it takes for one fun fact to flash on the screen is the time it should take to complete the process. Instead, you find yourself reading one after another after another—to the point where you just have to throw your hands up in the air and terminate the process. But when you do allow the process to finish, you’ll discover artifacts cropping up. I’ll stick to Lightroom and Photoshop when it comes to cleaning up my images. There are other problems with this app, among them a distorted histogram, which is really a bad sign.

​The Moose Peterson MP-3 V2.0 photo backpack marks a departure for MindShift Gear in two respects. First, MindShift doesn’t normally take on camera bags designed and previously marketed by a third party. And, second, the interior is different from anything MindShift has offered before now. The first marks a prudent step toward expansion, which, in today’s world, makes economic and business sense for a forward-thinking company. The second signifies a long-awaited and highly significant step toward making MindShift products more user-friendly and utilitarian.
 
As you may have figured out, this pack is the baby of wildlife photographer Moose Peterson--for wildlife photographers. It’s a vast improvement over the original Moose Peterson pack, which I’d reviewed some years back for a major photo magazine. And it stands head-and-shoulders above a similar design from another camera bag company. In fact, even hinting at any similarity is an insult to the Moose pack.

​An Inside Look
Professional wildlife photographers use long, fast lenses. These lenses are, by and large (no pun intended), ginormous. But many photo backpacks are not designed to easily hold them, without sacrificing much, if not all, of the available space, leaving little room for anything else.
 
What makes this bag eminently suited to this pursuit is its tripartite design. The longest compartment is specifically designed around a long, fast lens attached to the camera or an even physically bigger lens on its own. Two smaller sections house the camera (when detached from the lens), along with a second body and even a third, several additional lenses, converters, a shoe-mount or two, and filters. When the main section is not fully occupied, there’s plenty of room for other gear. In fact, whichever size Moose pack you buy, it will comfortably hold at least one body with pro-grip, with lens attached.
 
Each item of gear is securely nestled in place thanks to the thick but flexible Velcro-friendly dividers—a serious departure from the dividers MindShift has been using in its other packs, and a welcome change. The new dividers let you customize the interior almost infinitely, with various-sized sections. The new dividers also do a better job of hugging and grabbing your stuff so it doesn’t slide around, or out of the bag, should you open it while it’s in an upright position. All this is safely contained within a fairly rigid, padded wall that encompasses the pack.
 
Protecting everything at the front end are three separate zipped access panels, which are padded. What’s noteworthy about these panels is that, rather than remaining open and exposing the contents to the elements, they drop back down. Just make sure to zip the panels shut before donning the pack. What would have made this even sweeter is if MindShift would have used the magnetic-locking clips, similar to the ones used on the Rotation packs, so the panels would stay closed. Then again, someone might see that as an encumbrance to quickly getting into the bag.

​Is It Perfect?
This pack will also hold a tripod over the large front panel or on the side, using the mesh pocket. However, I’m sure you’d rather reserve this sizable pocket for a large Nalgene water bottle. Either way, it’s a workable arrangement.
 
There’s no space for a hydration pack. In fact, as comfy as the bag is to wear, it’s best use comes from taking short hops away from your vehicle or traversing mild terrain. It’s too bulky to negotiate tight spaces. Still, I’m pretty sure you don’t plan to use this bag on long, arduous hikes over treacherous terrain or to scale steep slopes. And even if you did, feel assured that the bag will remain steadfastly on your back.
 
There’s no room for lunch, a jacket, rain poncho, first aid kit, guide books, and other hiker essentials, unless you want to clear out a section of gear. A spacious front pocket or upper tier, where stuff like this goes, is lacking. There is a small pocket on top, where you can store filters, lens tissue, and the like, plus mesh pockets inside each flap, but none of these is well-suited to a sandwich or a change of clothes.
 
The Moose pack is perfectly suited as a bag you’d want to work out of. The self-closing flaps help toward that end. When laid flat, the pack serves as the perfect workspace. And it’s designed to keep you well organized. To say that this pack is thoughtfully designed would be an understatement. 

​In Use
I loaded the bag up with about 25 pounds of gear. I don’t usually carry this much gear around and dreaded the thought. Still, once I got over the shock of how heavy it felt when I first picked it up (before actually weighing the load), after donning the pack, I must say that it felt good. In fact, I’d noted that the shoulder straps didn’t slide off my shoulders. Sliding shoulder straps are a big bane on most backpacks. Still, to make carrying this load even easier, I cinched the included waist belt and sternum strap. The shoulder straps, by the way, are well padded to handle the load, as well as contoured and breathable for a comfy ride.
​
I should point out that the waist belt, while included, does not come attached to the bag. Slide it through the lumbar pad on back of the pack. You’ll note that the strap has two hook-and-loop strips. They attach to their counterpart on the inside of the lumbar pad, so make sure to insert the strap properly (the breathable mesh goes against your waist). The tapered waist strap is thin enough to be easily stored out of the way when not in use, but ample enough to give you the needed support and comfort.

You’ll note that there are no compression straps anywhere. They’re not really needed. Compression straps are required on bags designed for arduous hikes and backpacking. But to protect the zippers, at least around the circumference of the bag, there is a narrow rain flap, just wide enough to do the job, not too wide that it gets in the way.

Speaking of straps, I almost forgot to mention a few things. First, there are two padded carry handles – one on top, another on the side, so you can carry the bag like a suitcase.  While I haven’t had the opportunity to test it out, the bag’s squarish design makes it well-suited for overhead stowage on most airlines. And to further your efforts toward that end, the shoulder straps tuck neatly behind the airflow shoulder pads that lie against your back. (In fact, that’s how the bag is delivered to you.) Also, you can wrap the waist belt and secure it in front, to maintain the bag’s svelte lines.

On the face of it, this Moose pack looks like a piece of handsomely crafted luggage. In fact, the pack appears so innocuous that there’s nothing about it that even remotely screams camera bag. Well, if you don’t count the tripod hanging in front…

​MATERIALS​ (Mfr. specifications)
Exterior: For superior water resistance, all exterior fabric has a durable water-repellant coating, plus the underside of the fabric has a polyurethane coating. The bag also features highest-quality abrasion-resistant YKK® RC-Fuse zippers, 420D velocity nylon, 600D polyester, 1680D ballistic nylon, 320G DuraStretch mesh, nylon webbing, 350G airmesh, nylon webbing, 3-ply bonded nylon thread.
 
Interior: High-density velex, 210D silver-toned nylon lining, hexa mesh pockets, high-density closed-cell foam, 3-ply bonded nylon thread.

​I can’t remember ever using a camera holster. Fact of the matter is, I find them too limiting. More to the point, I’m a photo backpack guy.

Still, I was intrigued by the moniker Multi-Mount, so I opted to test out this new bag from MindShift Gear, one of my two favorite camera bag companies (along with Think Tank Photo).

I chose to review the largest holster in this new lineup, the Multi-Mount Holster 50. And when the bag arrived and I initially holstered my Nikon D610, my first thought was: big mistake. What was I thinking? This bag is too roomy for a camera without a pro-grip. I should have ordered this bag one or two sizes smaller.

So I let it sit around, and sit, and sit.

Until one day, when I was retrofitting a backpack to give to a friend.

​Unlike some reviewers, I recycle my older camera bags. I even ask that the bag recipients make a small charitable contribution in place of paying me for the bag.

Anyway, I came upon a padded divider that I’d stored. That’s another thing I do. Some packs—not any from MindShift or Think Tank, I might add—are just not worth giving to anyone, so I gut them and keep the dividers for later use, relegating these bags to other purposes, or just leaving them in the laundry room for any takers.

​Retrofitted to Suit My Needs
So, here was this wedge-shaped divider that turned out to be a perfect fit for the Multi-Mount 50. Well, almost perfect. To make this an even better fit, I added a thick pad covered in Velcro-friendly material to the bottom of the holster. Which now meant I could secure the divider on three sides using its hook-and-loop tabs. (And, yes, that pad came from yet another old pack.)
 
I wasn’t done. The holster included two narrow, thinly padded dividers. I don’t even recall where they were placed initially, but the first thing I did was to pull them out. It turned out that the wedge-shaped divider fell a bit short, leaving the top of the camera with the pentaprism housing exposed to bumps from anything sitting in the newly partitioned adjoining section. So I simply used these spare dividers to add to the height of the barrier. The arrangement was flexible enough to accommodate the top of the camera while isolating the two sections.
 
Granted, I probably could have used the two spare dividers alone, without adding anything, but the divider that I did add was thicker and of a heavier density and I felt it would do a better job of separating one section from the other.
 
Now I had room for my Nikon SB-700 flash in the ancillary section, with the D610 and attached Tamron 70-300mm zoom (or Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 zoom) in the main, larger section. Could I do even better? (Note: the manufacturer recommends using the outside pocket for the flash, but I prefer keeping my flash where it would be better protected while on the move, then possibly sticking it in a photo vest pocket once I arrive at my destination.)

​Room for More
One day I’d decided to do some macro shooting, replacing the zoom with my Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro. That meant I’d also need my Metz ring flash. Hmm, could I also make room for the SB-700 inside the bag?
 
Why bother with the SB-700? I’ve often used a shoe-mount in place of the macro flash. The trick is to use the flash in bounce mode with the dome diffuser (diffusion dome) attached. That produces a soft, feathered light that doesn’t overwhelm the subject or create heavy, disturbing shadows behind it.
 
Anyway, that step was simple enough. I added a layer of protection (another padded divider from the storage bin) over the ring flash and lay the shoe-mount on top.
 
Next I wondered if I could make room for a second lens. Okay, something would have to give. I removed the ring flash. After all, the shoe-mount had greater utility. The Tamron macro was still on the camera, but I also wanted to take my Nikon 60mm macro, and as luck would have it, this lens was compact enough to fit in place of the ring flash, with the shoe-mount again riding on top.
 
And There Was Room for Even More
There is a zippered inside pocket—mesh so you can see what’s inside. I stuck the rain cover and a filter (inside its case) in there.
 
I wasn’t done. I had an outside front pocket waiting to be filled. This space was relegated to anything that wasn’t easily damaged, which included batteries for the camera and flash, a white balance target, and Rocket blower.
 
I was a happy camper.

​In Use
First, you’re probably asking, how easy was it to get at the camera, now that I’d crowded it in with all the extras? Very easy indeed.
 
I should point out that I’d attached a SpiderPro Hand Strap to the camera, with a BlackRapid Tripod Plate 70 at the bottom, which now lets me readily use a tripod when needed.
 
While the bag would have accommodated a neck strap on the camera, a sling that attaches to the tripod socket would have been a bit much for this configuration. I would have had to make room, at the expense of the second section.
 
The nice thing about this Spider wrist strap is that I’ve gotten so used to it that I no longer feel a need to hang the camera around my neck or deal with a long strap getting in my way.
 
Wonder how I manage to hold onto the camera with that wrist strap for long periods without a neck strap or sling? Intermittently I rest the camera in my free hand, relax my grip for a moment or two, and flex my fingers. Simple, really.
 
The holster comes with a waist belt. That made a big difference, securing the bag in place so it wouldn’t swing around as I bent over to shoot low when focusing on macro subjects. That meant that I wouldn’t constantly have to divert attention away from the subject and toward the bag in an effort to reposition the holster behind my back, where I generally like to keep it, rather than at my side. (Okay, it did slide around a little, since I don’t like to cinch the waist belt too tight, but it wasn’t enough to prove an annoyance as I was shooting.)
 
The waist belt also takes some of the weight off your shoulder. However, it didn’t go far enough. Because I’d weighed the bag down by filling it to capacity, I found myself having to swap out the shoulder strap for one with a more substantial all-rubber shoulder pad, which also did a better job of gripping my shoulder. (Again, another remnant from a bag relegated to the throw-away pile.)
 
That said, the shoulder pad on the shoulder strap that came with the bag is pliable enough so that it won’t dig into your neck when you wear it sling-style, if that’ how you prefer to wear a shoulder bag. The strap would also work well if you opted to wear the bag as a chest pack, with the strap draped around your neck. This holster bulked out too much for me to comfortably wear it in this fashion. That’s something I might have done with one of the smaller versions.
 
I didn’t even try the other carrying modes. Again, if this were one of the smaller holsters, I would have entertained the notion of attaching it to my backpack. The bag also comes with a pair of tether straps that let you secure the holster to the back of the backpack; in front, as a chest pack but this time in tandem with the backpack; and as a waist pack, attached to the waist belt of the backpack, albeit at the front, lower down than you’d normally wear a chest pack. By letting the Multi-Mount ride tandem with a backpack, you can keep the camera in the holster, at your beck and call, while the rest of your gear rides comfortably on your back.
 
What can I say? The Multi-Mount Holster gives you the best of all worlds, keeping gear safe and ready for use the moment inspiration strikes. I didn’t think I’d like it, but I do. I use it regularly. And now I’m glad I’ve got the Multi-Mount Holster 50, the biggest holster in the lineup, since it lets me carry enough gear to tackle whatever I expect to encounter during the day, or night.

A NEAT ACCESSORY
Keep memory cards at the ready with MindShift Gear’s Card-Again memory card wallets. The CF version holds 4 cards; the SD version holds 6. If you get the CF version, as I did, you can store 2 SD cards in each slot.

Before creating an HDR, you have to ask yourself: Is the process adding something of value to the picture? Am I rescuing key highlight and shadow information that would otherwise be lost? Am I adding something of aesthetic value to the picture?

Each time I export images to an HDR application, I ask myself these questions. Or I should. Sometimes, in the excitement of trying to do more, I end up doing less, and then I go back and chastise myself for forgetting to address these questions.

I’ve worked with numerous HDR apps, most often as plug-ins to Adobe Lightroom, always in search of the ultimate HDR solution. When Adobe endowed Lightroom with an HDR merge function, I thought, bye-bye plug-ins. I was wrong. Lightroom’s HDR is nice, but it’s bland and unimaginative in comparison to the independent third-party apps out there. The one thing Lightroom HDR has going for it is that all the processing remains under one roof.

But you have to step out the door every once in a while. And Aurora HDR Pro – for Mac only, co-developed by Trey Ratcliff and available through Macphun Software, is a nice breath of fresh air when you do step across that threshold.
​
Of course, as with any HDR app, when you do step outside, you may still encounter the odd cloud or two that unleashes anything from a drizzle to a downpour, destroying that carefully coiffed ‘do. But if you cover yourself with a simple umbrella – no overly elaborate steps needed, you’ll step back in with a more lustrous head of hair than when you started.

​Aurora HDR Pro’s Interface and Settings
Each HDR app brings to the table certain features and foibles. To begin, they all like to think they’re the flavor of the month. And that is true to a degree, because when they’re new, we all flock to them. But for some, that flavor soon fades or even sours. And just in time, another steps in, in this instance Aurora HDR, to pick up the gauntlet.
 
One of the things I look at is the set of presets and settings each app uses to create an HDR. Some use esoteric settings couched in an exotic language that doesn’t readily fall off the tongue. Not so with Aurora HDR.
 
First, the interface is clean and simple. Presets are shown along the bottom of the screen, with a settings panel on the right. My only complaint here is that the preset image is truncated – I’d like to see the full preview image.
 
The settings themselves are largely readily understood, but if any are new to you it just takes a few tweaks to see what they do. Just remember to Undo them afterwards, unless they’re to your liking, or hit the preset to start over. And if you’re really enthralled with your tweaks, save them as a User preset, so you can use them next time.
 
The one thing missing here is User Preferences. I may want one preset to initially apply to my HDR merges when launching Aurora HDR or perhaps I’d like to use the previously used preset, but, for now, I can’t dictate that. Also, you may want to default to a specific file format when exporting the HDR image. And you may want to customize the filename extension added to the resulting HDR image (although I’m sure most would be happy with the default).

​Step One: Choose RAW or TIFF Files
You can work with the standalone app or the plug-in (Lightroom, Photoshop and even the now defunct Apple Aperture). I prefer the plug-in, since I do my RAW conversions first – in Lightroom. A wide range of file types is supported. The standalone version has the advantage of being able to export the HDR to social media and to a broad range of applications, including Photoshop, Lightroom, and Macphun’s own Creative Suite.
 
Aurora HDR Pro installed itself effortlessly in Lightroom and Photoshop. In Photoshop, it’s listed under Filters. In Lightroom, the plug-in pops up in the list of export options: choose to work with the original, meaning RAW, files or adjusted (converted) TIFF files. I’ll be discussing the plug-in’s use in Lightroom.
 
As with any HDR app, the first thing to do is to select the bracketed exposures that will contribute to the merged image. When I shoot handheld with my Nikon D610, the maximum number of exposures for auto-bracketing is 3, and that’s worked well so far, usually at +/- 1 EV increments.
 
To minimize the possibility of shooting long exposures, I often set an ISO that will deliver relatively fast shutter speeds. The benefit there is in minimizing the gap between exposures, with the camera set to capture sequential frames at the highest rate, which minimizes camera and subject movement and possibilities for ghosting.
 
Working in Lightroom, I’ve worked with both RAW and TIFF files. In some instances, surprisingly or not, the TIFF files worked best. For the most part, though, my first choice is to merge RAW files. That means that none of the adjustments made in Lightroom carry over – and hence can’t taint – the resulting merged HDR.
 
The down side to using RAW files, at least when working with some lenses, is that the HDR image that Aurora returns to Lightroom doesn’t carry complete or entirely accurate EXIF data. For example, when I try to apply a lens profile in Lightroom, the profiles for images shot with Tamron and Sigma lenses are all wrong, judging by the ones tested so far. I’ve had to use a different lens profile, then further adjust that, or make the adjustment from scratch. Not a big deal, per se, just a minor annoyance. (And this quirk is not exclusive to Aurora HDR.)
 
When you work with converted TIFF files, you first apply the lens profile, so that’s written in stone. In other words, there’s no longer a need to concern yourself with that aspect of the editing process.

​Step Two: The Opening Dialog Window
When you export the files for the HDR from Lightroom to Aurora HDR Pro, you’re greeted by a dialog box, which gives you three options: alignment, ghost reduction, and chromatic aberration (color fringing) correction. When working with RAW files, I check all three. Alignment is especially important when shooting handheld, on a monopod, or even with tripod shots that show even the slightest discrepancy between frames. Note: when working with RAW files, even though you are using chromatic aberration correction in Aurora, you should also enable Remove Chromatic Aberration in Lightroom, since there may be a residual amount of color fringing that remains in the HDR.
 
When ready, click Create HDR.

​Step Three: Choose a reference Image and Deghosting Strength
Moving on, now you have to choose a reference Image and the amount of deghosting (ghost removal) to be applied. I’ve found that selecting an overexposed frame that involves movement as the reference Image tends to result in ghosting that can’t be corrected by the software (this applies to Aurora and other HDR apps). So choose the metered exposure or the one below it.
 
If you’ve come this far, take the next step: click Create HDR (same command, different dialog box).

​Step Four: Making Your HDR Shine in Aurora HDR Pro
You’re now on the main screen, the Aurora HDR interface. It takes a few moments to get here while the program is processing the HDR, so be patient.
 
The easiest way to start is to select a preset. I find the ones labeled “realistic” are the best place to start. You can then tweak the settings in the panel on the right.
 
Presets have cute and clever names – a bit too cute and clever for my taste, but, hey, that’s me. What I would have liked is if each preset, when scrolled over, would offer a brief description that differentiates it from its neighbors. You can, of course, create your own presets, and the nice thing here is that presets are grouped by the overall impression they’re designed to make or a subject or situation they address, or by the person who customized them (Trey Ratcliff or User). There’s also a Favorites group, and a way to get more presets off the Web.
 
To Aurora’s credit, however, when you click on a preset, you’re presented with a slider that globally modifies the HDR look of the image. Specifically, this slider addresses the Layer Opacity (not to be confused with other Opacity settings, such as Denoise Opacity).
 
More to the point, changing this Opacity setting directly affects the histogram. For instance, you can use this setting to reduce clipping (lost highlight and shadow detail). Click on the two triangles top left and right above the histogram to see shadow and highlight clipping, respectively, which are shown as blue and red in the image.
 
You may find that you’re overwhelmed by all the settings. Don’t be. Creating an HDR image that’s worth sharing is worth the effort. You can use the presets for a quick fix, but step through all the settings to show that you really care about the image, at least initially. Over time you’ll discover that certain settings are more relevant to delivering the look you’re after.

​The Final Step
Next, export the image back to Lightroom. Here you can make the necessary lens corrections that weren’t previously applied, add sharpening, and finesse the image further to deliver the look you want.

paired with a Minolta SR-T 102. I burned plenty of Kodachrome with that glass.
​​
​That 90mm macro lens focused to half life-size (1:2 reproduction ratio) but required an adapter—a multi-element extension tube in this case—to go to life-size (1:1). What’s more, the Vivitar lacked internal focusing, so as you focused closer, the lens barrel extended out awkwardly.
Many newer macro lenses thankfully offer internal focusing, making them easier to handle. Case in point, the Tamron SP 90mm f/2.8 VC macro model F004 and the brand–new F017 90mm macro.
When the new Tamron SP 90mm F/2.8 Di VC USD 1:1 Macro (Model F017) arrived, I was really eager to see the what this updated model brings to the table. The new lens is currently available for Canon and Nikon, with the Sony Alpha mount on pre-order at retailers.  READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.

​In the past, working with the PM-260, I’d output a stack of prints from this earlier-model PictureMate,  take them with me on trips and hand them out to people I met. It was a great icebreaker. Those prints brought smiles to people’s faces. So now it was time to see if Epson’s latest iteration in this series would have the same effect. Spoiler alert: it did.
 
Very recently I led a group here in Chicago on a photo workshop. Toward the end of the day, I pulled a pack of 4x6 prints out of my vest pocket and shared some of my photographs with the group. I didn’t mention the printer I’d used. Instead I opted to wait for someone to ask. It didn’t take long, when the question popped up: What printer did you use? The Epson PictureMate PM-400, I responded with a smile. They were duly impressed.
 
I also used these prints at other photo workshops that I’d led locally - to illustrate photographic technique or just to give the group a feeling for what to expect, what they might photograph or how they might approach different subjects. Again, there was a round of positive responses. These prints made my pictures look good.
 
This approach was certainly easier than using my tablet. And I didn’t have to worry about a tablet slipping from my grasp or being knocked from my hands by an errant passerby. Not to mention, I didn’t own a tablet back when the PM-260 was around. But even now, I find it much easier to carry 4x6 prints. Someone even remarked that they look like postcards. I wasn’t initially sure what to make of that comment, but decided the reference was to the prints, not the images on them, so I took it as a compliment.
 
A Small Package, Big Potential
When the PM-400 arrived, I opened the box and looked at the unit. It was tiny, certainly compared with the old PM-260. Maybe half the height, generally smaller all around, and it proved to be much lighter. In fact, you basically had to carry the old printer with its handle. You can pick up the PM-400 with one hand and barely feel it.
 
But is size and weight alone enough to make you buy this printer? Certainly not. What’s more, you may be saying to yourself: I can get a letter-size photo printer at a much cheaper price? Of course you can, but, as you’ll see, this tiny printer offers numerous advantages.
 
There are many benefits, some of which this printer shares with its larger siblings, but in the end you have to look at the total package. You can use the PM-400 to print with or without your computer. Without the computer, just insert an SD card or USB flash drive into the appropriate slot or, using your own USB cable, connect a compatible USB device (including a PictBridge-compatible camera) into the USB port on the PM-400. Or print wirelessly from any supported device.
 
What’s more, the PM-400 is quieter than those full-size printers, which can be relegated to printing letters and manuscripts, or homework, while you print keepsakes on the PictureMate. And you can run off a batch of prints without disturbing anyone in the house, right from your living room, while watching The Walking Dead, and without missing a beat – that’s more than we can say for the zombies.
 
But we’re getting ahead of ourselves…

​Setting Up the PM-400
I set up the PM-400 to run with a 21.5-inch iMac, under OS 10.9.5. The computer is equipped with a 3.1 GHz Intel Core i7 processor and 16GB RAM.
 
Setup was a snap. Once you plug the PM-400 into an AC outlet via the included AC adapter, open the lid (the output tray then drops open – be sure to flip open the extension), lift up the LCD panel, turn on the device, and follow the on-screen prompts. It couldn’t be simpler.
 
At the outset you’re prompted to install the included printer cartridge. Even though the unit comes with a sample 4x6 print pack with only a handful of sheets, the cartridge itself is full capacity, enabling me to output a full 20-pack of 5x7’s and more besides. I also received a 100-capacity cartridge/4x6 paper pack with the review unit (not included in the retail edition), but didn’t want to crack open the box just yet. Epson also sent a box of 40 semi-glossy sheets (again, not included with the printer).
 
If you print 5x7’s or other sizes, you’ll throw off the cartridge/sheet ratio in that 100-capacity cartridge/paper pack, so you might consider buying the cartridge and paper separately. Just make sure the printer supports the paper you’re buying, which includes Epson Ultra Premium Photo Paper Glossy, Epson Premium Photo Paper Glossy, Epson Photo Paper Glossy, and Epson Premium Photo Paper Semi-Gloss. The one paper surface not supported is matte (which was supported on the old PM-260).
 
Other brands of photo paper can be used, but you may not get the image permanence benefits that come from the Epson cartridge-Epson paper matchup. As to popular sizes, they top out at 5x7, with a mix of formats thrown in, including #10 envelopes. Borderless printing is supported.
 
Loading Paper
One other advantage to this printer is that loading paper is as straightforward as it gets – no need to open the unit. Paper drops into the slot right behind the LCD/control panel. When inserting paper, gently use the edge guide to slide the paper toward the left edge in the slot. Once the edge guide is in place, you can drop paper into the slot without resorting to the edge guide, unless you change paper sizes.
 
Paper is always loaded with the printable (glossy) side up. (Epson papers show the Epson logo on the reverse, non-printable side.) You can load up to 20 sheets of photo paper. For envelopes, see the online manual. Make sure you're not stacking paper above the indicator on the inside of the edge guide.
 
Load paper with a portrait orientation, vertically. When printing directly from the PM-400, prints automatically orient themselves – portrait or landscape – to match the image being printed. When printing from the computer, you’ll need to manually make that selection up front, along with a number of other settings.
 
Printing with the PM-400
Printing with this device couldn’t be simpler. I printed wirelessly from my Apple iMac and iPad and directly from the printer itself, in standalone mode.
 
I used the network connection to output from the computer, primarily from Adobe Lightroom but also Photoshop. I had no problem printing from Lightroom, but did initially encounter a bump in the road with Photoshop. So I retraced my settings, step by step, and easily corrected the situation. Once I had the settings I needed, I saved them as a Preset for this printer. (In Lightroom, under the Print menu option, adjust settings under Print Settings or Printer on the Print page; in Photoshop, select Print and adjust settings. Each time you go to print from Lightroom or Photoshop, you may have to re-select the “scale” options, so make sure to do that; I also found it best to re-select the paper size, which then further selected “scale down only.” See the screen grabs.)
 
Each time you load paper into the printer, the PM-400 asks you to either confirm the current choice or to choose the paper you’re using. When printing from the device itself, in my case from a USB drive, I followed the prompts in selecting a number of images to print. It’s all fairly straightforward. The online manual should clear up any confusion about a scant few settings that may be unclear.
 
I was a little disappointed when printing wirelessly from my Apple iPad – not in the PM-400, but in Apple’s AirPrint. I could find no way to direct the printer to output other than borderless full-bleed prints, which tended to crop out some of the image area. But I was otherwise very pleased by the quality of the print.
 
Finishing Up
When closing shop, lower the LCD panel. Remove any unused paper and return it to its original packaging. Then return the tray to its original upright position – where have I heard that one before? - and hold it while lowering the lid with its magnetic closure. You can effortlessly achieve both motions with one hand, using your thumb to hold the raised tray in place (after restoring the extension to its original position as well).
 
You can see the screen shutting off even under the lid. And of course the indicator light on the front extinguishes as well.
 
By the way, each time you use the printer, you’ll get an annoying reminder on the printer’s LCD to register. Register and get rid of the message. 

Complete with full resolution test images.
By Jack Neubart • Posted: Feb 1, 2016

Without telling us why, Olympus ferried a number of the photo press to Austin, Texas last week, myself included. As it turned out, the purpose was to debut the new Olympus Pen-F Micro Four Thirds digital mirrorless camera ($1199.99, body only). We got to test out the new 20-megapixel Olympus Pen-F for several days in Austin, and all I can say is: Wow! 

Read the full review here: Olympus Pen-F.

​I've had a love affair with MindShift Gear photo backpacks from the first. Over time, with the introduction of newer packs, I’ve had to displace older ones – not because I disliked those older packs but because the newer packs more closely addressed my needs and style of shooting. Not to mention, I just didn’t have the space for all of them.
 
The Rotation180 Panorama pushed aside the Pro size pack, but was in turn replaced by the Horizon because this pack was of the right size to hold the camera/lens combos I often use stored ready for fast retrieval in that built-in rotating waist pack.
 
Then along came the FirstLight 20L, which I really liked, but it did not meet my needs for a pack I could use in the snow or in muddy conditions without laying the pack on the ground. So the Horizon stood its ground, even though I found it (and the Panorama) a bit on the heavy side.
 
More recently, MindShift Gear introduced the BackLight 26L, which lets you work out of the bag while still wearing it – hence a workaround when negotiating snowy or muddy terrain. But that pack wasn’t enough to push the Panorama and FirstLight out of contention. I still wanted a pack that would only carry a limited amount of gear while I was running around Chicago yet would also let me carry some extras - more than would fit in an outside pocket, as spacious as the one on the BackLight is.

Specifically, I often challenge myself to make the most of a one-camera-one-lens combo, which usually means my Nikon D610 with attached Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 primarily for landscapes and architecture, Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 for landscapes and street shooting, or Tamron 70-300mm for wildlife, or sometimes the Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro for the obvious, but also for wildlife and scenic views with a different perspective.
 
Enter the UltraLight Dual 25L. Would I now being saying goodbye to my Horizon and FirstLight packs as well?

Light Weight But Not a Lightweight
The UltraLight Dual is not MindShift Gear’s first dual-tier system, since technically the Rotation180 series would also fall into that category. Then again, the Dual is not your typical two-tier pack either.

Two-level packs traditionally have separate top and bottom compartments – the bottom compartment thoroughly padded to accommodate a variety of camera gear, including one camera with attached lens; the top compartment unpadded for personal items (lunch, books, jacket, etc.), as is true here. Often, and applicable in this pack, the partition separating the two sections opens to let you extend one compartment into the other, for whatever reason (converting the entire pack to a daypack, for example).

Traditional two-tier packs feature either a clamshell camera section (opens like a clamshell) or a camera section that opens from the front. I used to like either design until I realized that opening a clamshell can become rather inconvenient if it’s top-heavy. And when the camera section opens from the front, the view or access inside was often obstructed in some way. And both designs required you to put the pack down.
 
MindShift’s UltraLight Dual builds upon a combination of two concepts: the dual-tier combined with a side-access panel. The side-access panel means you don’t have to put the bag down to get at your camera. Instead you sling the bag off the left shoulder, lift the bottom up so the bag is level, and reach over with your right hand, unzip the panel, and grab the camera. And to make things even sweeter, that camera compartment is actually a removable bag that comes with its own shoulder strap. You can even loop a belt through the back so it doesn’t shift as you’re moving about. The internal bag has its own zippered lid as added security (I usually leave this zipped only partially for faster access to the camera, unless negotiating rough terrain). If you keep the removable bag inside the pack, which makes more sense to me, rather than toting it on your shoulder, make sure to keep the outer panel zipped. 
 
How I Use the UltraLight Dual 25L
First, I begin with a lens attached to my D610. That really doesn’t leave room for an extra lens or flash, so I do the next best thing. The Nikon SB-700 came with a nice, semi-rigid, padded pouch, which I now use so I can store the flash in the upper compartment. When I get where I’m going, I can transfer the flash to a pocket in my photo vest.
 
Now, with regard to extra lenses. That’s where the MindShift Switch Case comes in handy. I added some extra padding on the bottom of the Switch Case. This also goes into the top compartment. I can transfer this pouch to the outside of the backpack when needed. And if I need more lenses, I’ll find a workaround. For now, this is fine. As I said, I don’t usually run around with a slew of lenses. If I’m traveling, then I’d likely use one of my other backpacks. Which pack? Depends on where I’m going (Think Tank's StreetWalker is often my go-to pack for travel). Then again, I may just decide to take this one. You have to remain flexible, and owning more than one photo backpack allows me to do just that.
 
Features (my comments in parentheses)

• Dedicated compartment for laptop, tablet or hydration reservoir. Fits 2.5L hydration or 15” laptop.
• Large capacity for personal gear: extra layers, a light jacket, food, etc. (ya gotta love this – don’t forget maps, guide books, instruction manuals for gear or functions you don’t use often).
• Removable camera compartment converts to a chest pack with the optional Tripod Suspension Kit (I prefer keeping this inside the pack, but don't forget that it can also be worn as a shoulder bag with the included shoulder strap).
• Integrated tripod/monopod mounting system on front (since this pack doesn’t open from the front, no fear of the pod getting in the way).
• Trap door platform allows you to use the entire bag for personal gear (in other words, you have two packs in one - daypack or photo backpack, although I'm keeping this as a photo backpack).
• Seam-sealed rain cover included (nice touch).
• High quality YKK RC Fuse zippers, 420D high-density nylon reinforced stress points for long lasting durability and strength (MindShift build quality is second to none and better than most).
• Highly breathable three-layer shoulder straps with daisy chain for additional gear (they’re comfy).
• Internal compression strap and drawstring collar maximize capacity and minimize bulk.
• Stretch side pocket (fits a standard-size water bottle).
• Internal zippered mesh pocket for small items.
• Zippered lid pocket and zippered waist belt pocket for quick access to small items (I would also have liked a pleated, outside front pocket).
• Accessory loop for mountain axe or hiking poles mounting.
• Lid closure doubles as a lash point for a large jacket or other bulky items (adds to capacity of pack).
• Ergonomic zipper pulls are easily gripped with gloves or chilled fingers.
• Adjustable dividers for different camera gear configurations (doesn’t apply to the way I carry my gear, since I just carry the camera with sizable lens attached – a configuration that completely fills this compartment; I can comfortably fit a Nikon D610 with attached Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 or Tamron 70-300mm).
• Adjustable sternum strap.
• Camera compartment lid tucks into side opening lid for quick access.
• Nylex LCD protector provides a place for your camera strap while covering your LCD (I even managed to squeeze a BlackRapid sling strap in here, with a hand strap attached to the camera as well; the camera's hot shoe may catch on this lid where it attaches to the bag, but you can simply nudge the obstruction out of the way).
• Compatible with the Filter Nest/Hive and Switch Case, Tripod Suspension Kit and Panorama/Horizon photo insert (snug fit with photo insert).

Call them what you will – ultra-wides or super-wides – I love ‘em. By covering a breathtaking expanse, these types of extreme wide-angle lenses are not only capable of capturing most landscapes, they also help sweep you into that landscape, making you feel a part of the scene in the process.

Of course, not every ultra-wide shot has to be expansive. Sometimes we just want to capture the full scope of a structure or geologic form or even a tree without having to step back more and more until we find ourselves on the edge of a precipice—or standing in the middle of traffic. And of course there’s always that in-your-face forced perspective that lends a dramatic flair to any subject photographed close up with these lenses.

Normally, I’d say, go with an ultra-wide zoom. But zooms, even at f/2.8, can be considered slow when we’re shooting at dawn or dusk, and especially after nightfall or in a dimly lit interior, without cranking ISO all the way up. What about using a tripod? I often prefer to leave my tripod at home, opting instead to shoot with the camera handheld. This way I’m free to move about, without worrying about the attached tripod bumping into people on a crowded street, or catching it in brambles or scraping against rock along the side of a trail, or having to take everything apart and set it up from scratch each time the tripod is needed.

Enter the Sigma 20mm f/1.4 Art lens. This lens, which Sigma is calling "the world's first" 20mm f/1.4 lens for full frame digital SLRs, is eminently suited to handheld photography. That said, it would work just as nicely seated on your favorite pod. In fact, it has one advantage for tripod users. You know how you always forget to disengage the image-stabilization (IS) mechanism on a lens equipped with this tech when the camera is on a tripod? Well, I always do. (That can result in blurred shots.) This lens does not feature IS, or OS (optical stabilizer) in Sigma parlance, so no worries. Now, is that entirely a good thing? Let’s find out.
​
Read the full review here, at shutterbug.com.

I was never a big fan of film emulators, so any time I used one, it wasn’t in an attempt to replicate the look and feel of a film as much as to lend a distinct character to an image. Besides, what I remember about film are scratches and fading, although a few films did leave an indelible mark in my memory. Well, almost indelible, as memory does fade over time, along with film.
 
But I do remember the rich colors of Kodak Kodachrome and the grainy texture of Kodak Tri-X, the increased contrast and grain when pushing film, and the look of some Polaroid instant slide films and how easily they were scratched.
 
When it came to E-6 reversal (slide) films, Fuji fast became a favorite, with Velvia and Provia leading the pack. Ilford’s black-and-white emulsions also had a unique place, capturing a certain depth of tone. Agfa color film never quite did it for me; ditto their black-and-white emulsions. Fuji black-and-white, too, was one I rarely used, although it did have its adherents. There was also 3M and Konica – each a poor but economical substitute. Some of these films are still available today, although I doubt they’re the same. On the other hand, for the more adventurous film shooter there is Lomography film, for a unique twist on analog photography.
 
One of my favorite black-and-white films was known as chromogenic—a favorite not because it was processed in color chemistry and yielded a black-and-white negative, but because it could be exposed over a wide range of ISO settings – kind of like what we do today with our digital cameras – one film fits all, kinda.
 
What I don’t miss about film is changing cassettes amid a storm of midges, the time wasted to change film cassettes, the need to change film cassettes whether because you’ve run out of exposures or to suit the lighting or the subject – and the need to carry around all those canisters of film. Good thing back then that airline travel was a simpler thing.
 
Still, I wonder if I’ll ever recapture the feeling of looking at a cardboard-mounted frame of Kodachrome on a lightbox, seeing  those rich colors, that fine grain. I know I won’t recapture it in a film emulator, but at least this software can imbue my images with a quality they did not have before. And that’s what I’m going for. And that’s what I found so remarkable about Alien Skin’s Exposure X.

Right off the top let me say that I’m not a shoulder-bag guy. In fact, I loathe shoulder bags. Want to know why? Look at any photographer who walks around stoop-shouldered from bearing the burden of a ton of gear on one shoulder. Even slung over the neck, it’s a wearisome weight to carry around. So why am I writing about Think Tank Photo's Retrospective Leather 5 shoulder bag, you ask?

Well, let me just add this. There is decidedly a place for a shoulder bag - for some people, on certain occasions. If I were a wedding photographer, I wouldn't want to show up at a wedding wearing the backpack I normally use. 
 
But I’m not a wedding photographer. In my role as nature/wildlife photographer and travel/street shooter, I head out these days with one of my MindShift Gear photo backpacks. When I have to travel light, as when I'm flying, I carry gear in my Think Tank Photo StreetWalker pack, because it’s compact yet holds a fair amount of gear - and it will fit under the airline seat in front of me. Provided I’m not carrying my clothes in a second, larger backpack, that is - which would be the case in this instance. Toting two backpacks just didn't make much sense. Which brings me to this compact shoulder bag.

My Camera Bag Solution 
For my recent trip to New York City, I needed a small camera bag, one that would easily fit inside the backpack. I wanted my hands free of any additional luggage and didn't want anything else hanging off my shoulder. What's more, if I'd decided to carry it separately, the bag had to be small enough to easily pass as my “personal” carry-on item when boarding the plane. 

That carry-on backpack, by the way, was originally a photo backpack from which I’d removed the padded insert. And, no, it’s not one from Think Tank Photo or MindShift Gear – I’d never relegate those packs to such lowly a task. I’d stopped using photo backpacks from other manufacturers to carry photo gear because I realized that they were not as comfortable or as practical or as protective of my gear as these packs from MindShift or Think Tank.

I knew of one bag that would fit my needs for this trip. My solution was Think Tank Photo’s Retrospective Leather 5, the smallest size in this series.
 
What I Had in Mind for This Bag
On this New York trip I was planning to carry my Nikon D610 with Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 VC lens attached. And this bag was the perfect size for that. I wasn’t planning to take extra lenses.

I often set out with just one lens to challenge myself to explore the different perspectives and viewpoints in my compositions this lens would allow. What I especially like about this 24-70mm lens is that it’s image-stabilized. And it’s a great all-purpose lens, especially under dim lighting conditions!
 
What’s more, I don’t like carrying body and lenses detached because that slows down your response time immeasurably. Yes, carrying separate components – body and lenses - would have allowed me to carry an extra lens – but then what happens when you have to put the camera away, especially in a rush? There would be no room, unless you detached the lens. So why start out at a deficit was my argument! Not to mention, you may not be in a dust-free or weather-conducive environment when it comes time to attach or change lenses, or somewhere that you’re comfy letting your guard down while messing with the camera.
 
Oddly enough, I still had room for one more key item: my flash. I was able to comfortably stuff my Nikon SB-700 into the outside front pocket without bulking the bag out much. Yes, there was room for the flash inside the bag, but I found it hindered quick access to the camera, and worse, got in the way when trying to replace the D610 inside the bag. This proved to be the best and most practical carrying solution, giving me easy access to camera and flash.

(I should also note that I wear a photo vest - a great way to carry lots of small stuff, including a pocket camera, while getting around carry-on restrictions, although it does go through the airport security scanner, along with my bags.)
 
Retrospective Leather 5 Key Features
The leather Retrospective is a more elegant version of the all-canvas version released several years back. Not that the original wasn’t stylish in its own right. Still, leather, especially when it’s of good quality, does have a nice ring to it. And it’s considerably more fashionable. The leather series comes in three sizes, whereas the original Retrospectives are available in numerous configurations.
 
Here are the key features, from a Think Tank Photo press release (with my comments/observations added).

• Hook-and-loop “Sound Silencers” eliminate the noise of front flap hook and loop. (You can take this route and use the clasp, but I found it’s faster and easier to work with the hook-and-loop fasteners, if a bit noisier - but easily overlooked on a noisy New York City street. For quicker access maybe just silence one of the fasteners.)
• High quality YKK zippers, metal hardware, leather accents, premium build. (The YKK zippers really do make a difference in any bag. There’s plenty of leather, so it’s more than just “accents.” From what I’ve read on the Internet, Dakota leather, which is used here and by BMW, is very durable. But don’t expect that heavy leather smell, which, frankly, I was looking forward to.)
• Adjustable cushioned nonslip shoulder strap for all day comfort. (Works nicely! That said, I wear the bag sling-fashion, which is doable with a light load. The strap webbing goes all the way around. This level of support is especially important in the largest bag.)
• Easily accessible front organizer with key tether. (I never use key tethers in a bag, but I can appreciate the organizer pocket. There are also side pockets that hug the bag – perfect for spare batteries, although batteries should be stored inside the bag in freezing cold weather to take advantage of the insulation.)
• Stiffened, padded removable dividers. (Since I carry the camera with lens attached, I take some of these dividers and form an added cushioning layer at the bottom, as a buffer in case I set the bag down too hard. I do the same with all my backpacks. Essentially, I “float” these dividers so there’s a layer of air underneath, which still leaves plenty of room to position the camera with the grip up for a fast grab. And there's room to stow small items such as filters in this new "compartment.")
• Inner zippered pocket for important documents. (I keep overlooking this option. There’s also a zippered pocket on the back, against your body. There is also a pair of inner side pockets for batteries in cold weather.)
• Removable carrying handle for grab and go convenience. (Don’t remove it. When you board the plane, tuck the shoulder strap inside – it’s not detachable. Now carry this more compact bag by the handle and conveniently stow it under the seat in front of you.)
• Webbing attachment points to accommodate modular pouches or a carabineer. (I attach a water bottle or pouch here on either side.)
• Seam-sealed rain cover included. (Very, very nice touch!)

 
In the Field
For starters, the bag was a perfect fit under the seat in front of me, even on a relatively small commuter jet, Endeavor Air, to be specific.
 
Because the bag was so small and held a minimum amount of gear, carrying it was not uncomfortable in the least. In fact, I slung the shoulder strap over my neck. I hate it when a shoulder bag keeps sliding off the shoulder. ​I should add that the shoulder pad on this bag is quite nice, with strips on the underside designed for a secure purchase on the shoulder.

​Still, simply carrying the bag on your shoulder invites someone on the street to grab it. Which is also a good reason for using a sling strap on the camera. And, thankfully, there was room enough for that camera sling strap as well inside the bag.

​With few exceptions, and largely due to publishing demands, printer reviews are written rather hastily. I decided to take my time with this one to see how well this printer would do when left idle for weeks at a time. Usually that’s when you see problems crop up with the print heads. Well, the Epson SureColor P600 performed admirably right after I unpacked it and months later, after extended periods of idleness – without a hiccup, where the print heads were concerned. Ink delivery was always spot on, to borrow a British expression. And in contrast to some competitive products, installation was a breeze and operation went smoothly, for the most part. The only glitches lay entirely on my shoulders.
 
A Little Background
I’ve used Epson printers exclusively for many years. Some years back I reviewed the Stylus Photo R2880—an early predecessor to the new P600 in the 13x19-inch printer arena. And I fell in love with that printer. One of the things lacking, however, was wireless capability.
 
Both the R2880 and P600 are 9-ink cartridge systems, with one substantial difference—well, actually more than one, as you’ll soon see. The one particular feature that annoyed me when I worked with the R2880 was that I had to exchange ink cartridges – matte in place of photo black, or the other way around – when using matte or glossy paper, respectively. To top it off, I couldn’t feel assured that the removed cartridge would remain viable for long, despite being stored inside two zipped baggies.
 
Well, the new SureColor P600 remedies both situations. It features wireless connectivity. So now I don’t have to feel claustrophobic with a large desktop printer fencing me in or have to deal with tripping over overly long USB cables when the printer was positioned some distance away (or having to plug/unplug the cable each time I used the printer to get around that problem).

What’s more, this printer employs both matte and photo black inks as part of the 9-ink system—without you having to physically swap them out. Meaning, they both reside inside the printer, ready to go when called upon.

And there are of course numerous other improvements, not least of which is the new and improved ink set - Epson UltraChrome HD (it seems everyone likes to get in on the “HD” craze these days).
 
Features at a Glance

• Advanced media handling up to 13 inches wide – front-in and front-out paper path; print with a wide variety of media, including fine art papers; roll-paper printing for panoramas over 10 feet long (roll-paper holders included)
• New ink set with denser blacks – Epson UltraChrome HD pigment ink delivers black density richer than previous Epson pigment ink printers for the richest blacks
• Greater productivity with high-capacity cartridges – nine 25.9 ml pigment ink cartridges with auto-switching photo and matte black inks
• Versatility – prints on canvas, art boards, and CD/DVDs
• Intuitive interface – easy-to-use 2.7-inch tilting touch panel color LCD
• Optimized dot placement – for more precise dot placement and enhanced image quality
• Professional control – Advanced Black-and-White Mode for professional level neutral or toned B&W prints
• Enhanced connectivity – Apple AirPrint and Google Cloud Print support; USB 2.0; Wireless n, Wi-Fi Direct, and 100Mbit Ethernet

 
What’s Special About the P600
First, it’s sleekly styled yet unassuming in design, with functionality standing at the forefront. The very inviting interface consists of a control panel with three buttons and touch panel, making the P600 even less intimidating to first-time wide-format printer users than the R2880.
 
Second, it’s fairly easy to set up and use right out of the box. You don’t really have to know anything about inkjet printing to get started right away, although it does help to have an understanding of how to get prints to look the way you want them to. Everything went smoothly, from unboxing to setup and making my first print.
 
Third, the P600 features an Advanced Micro Piezo AMC print head with ink-repelling coating technology incorporated in the new ink set. The nozzles lay down ink with a minimum droplet size of 2 picoliters (compared with 3 picoliters on the R2880). And I can’t emphasize it enough: You no longer need to switch out photo and matte black – the printer automatically selects the correct ink (based on paper settings). You have to see the results for yourself to fully appreciate all of this.

​Setting Up the P600
Setting up the printer was a breeze. The toughest part probably was removing all the packing tape. Just follow the instruction sheet and you should be fine.
 
Ditto installing the print cartridges.
 
Except one thing: when inserting a cartridge, make sure you hear it snap into place. I initially installed them just short of that when I realized my mistake—it takes a bit more pressure to get the cartridge to go down all the way—click! Oh, and be sure to shake each cartridge (gently, you’re not on the dance floor) and be super-diligent to remove the yellow tape (hard to miss when it’s practically staring you in the face).
One more thing, if you’re new to inkjet printing, especially on Epson, be careful to not touch the green chip on each cartridge. That chip is how the printer communicates with the cartridge, and vice versa.
 
When setting up, once you plug in and turn the printer on, don’t leave it idle too long, or the display will black out. If and when that happens, don’t touch the screen if you haven’t completed the setup process. I made that mistake and ended up choosing German as my language. With a little backtracking, I managed to correct the error. Henceforward I learned to simply hit the power button to turn the display back on.
 
It does take the printer a few minutes to initialize for the first time, which includes charging the print head. But once that was done, I was ready to print.

​Printing with the P600: Auto Sheet Feeder
I can’t emphasize enough how effortless the process of printing was with the P600, at least when using auto sheet feed. That is, once I made one or two adjustments.
 
There were a few critical settings that I had to make in Lightroom and in the Epson printer software before printing: namely, setting paper type and size and setting Epson color management (managed by printer, not Adobe Lightroom, the software I used for printing). Using Epson color management follows Epson’s recommendation, and I have to say it was on the money. I was especially pleased with prints that featured good color depth, rich colors, and clean blacks and whites. There was no need to soft-proof when following this approach. (Some may argue with this.)
 
Printing on Fine-Art Paper: Manual Feed
This is where things can get a bit tricky. Nothing bad, only somewhat circuitous. Be sure to follow the instructions to the letter. The most prevalent problem I encountered was with the paper being fed askew (ever so slightly, I might add). I figured out a workaround: I place a finger along the edge of the paper to make sure it lies flush against the right side—with very gentle pressure, releasing as the paper starts to feed. (Manual feed is actually semi-automatic: once you’ve positioned the paper and directed the printer to move to the next step, the process once again becomes fully automatic.)
 
Once the paper is ready at the printer’s end, you can return to the computer and click Print (or make your settings, if you hadn’t already done so).
​
Don’t be intimidated. On-screen prompts (on the printer, not the computer) guide you step by step. Just be sure to position the paper with the print side up. If you get an error message after you hit Print on your computer, retrace your steps. In your software, make sure you’ve set the correct paper type, set “Matte” (where applicable), and set the applicable color management (for Epson papers, I used “Managed by Printer”). There was no need for Print Adjustment. Again, I’m using Lightroom CC for my printing.
 
Manual feed works with fine art media with a thickness ranging from 0.012 to 0.028 in. (0.3 to 0.7mm). Unfortunately, paper thickness on the package is given in “mil.” (Equivalent values in “mm” are given below.)

Working with Epson Papers
Epson sent a generous selection of papers, mostly letter-size, but also one 13x19 pack. A fellow photographer that I showed sample prints to was duly impressed by the output.

My recommendation is to limit switching back and forth between papers requiring different black inks. More to the point, gang all jobs that use either photo or matte black ink together, where possible. As it turns out, you waste considerable ink in the process, as Jon Canfield pointed out in his review of the larger Epson SureColor P800 on shutterbug.com. This would, of course, apply to any papers, regardless of manufacturer. By the way, the P800 would be a good desktop choice in a 17-inch printer if you don’t want to step all the way up to a floor-standing model but still want larger prints that the P600 can deliver.
 
The papers I tested, and which produced truly admirable and striking results, included the following. But what it really comes down to is this: You have to try each of these (and the other available Epson papers) for yourself. Choice of paper is always personal, although end use and subject may dictate or at least influence those choices.
 
Epson Photographic Papers (papers tested with photo black and auto-sheet feeder). Sheet size tested shown.
 
PERSONAL OBSERVATION: a good choice for everyday printing, although, of the three listed, I tend to favor the metallic media for their added depth.

• Ultra Premium Photo Paper Luster (letter-size & 13x19). 10 mil (= 0.254mm). USAGE NOTE: a more economical, all-around paper – really handy, especially if you’re handing out free or sample prints.

• Metallic Photo Paper Luster (letter-size). 10.5 mil (= 0.2667mm). USAGE NOTE: according to the guidelines that came with this paper, it should use the manual feed slot, although I had no problem using the auto-feeder. I like the look and feel of these metallic papers. It’s different.

• Metallic Photo Paper Glossy (letter-size). 10.5 mil (= 0.2667mm). USAGE NOTE: according to the guidelines that came with this paper, it should use the manual feed slot, although I had no problem using the auto-feeder. Choose Glossy if you prefer a slicker look.

 
Epson Fine Art Papers (papers tested with matte black and manual sheet feed). All tested papers were letter-size.
 
PERSONAL OBSERVATION: I love these papers! I don’t know why anyone would use papers from another manufacturer, especially given the fact that, in combination with the P600, prints come out deliciously rich without soft-proofing or profiling.

• Exhibition Watercolor Paper Textured (letter-size). 22 mil (= 0.5588). USAGE NOTE: you can fairly easily detect the printable side. It has a rough feel to it. The prints have a soft, painterly quality, but with a certain richness to them.

• Velvet Fine Art Paper (letter-size).  19 mil (= 0.4826). USAGE NOTE: I don’t know why Epson clearly labels some print packages as the printable side and not others. In this case, much more so than the watercolor paper, it’s difficult to discern the printable side – even by touch. When I have difficulty, I hold my papers up to the light at an angle to see which side looks more heavily textured – look for an embossed (stippled/dimpled) look. If that doesn’t work, a neat trick is to very mildly dampen thumb and index finger (saliva will do – apply to one finger then gently rub fingers together); next, hold the paper between these two fingers, pressing firmly, on one corner (supporting the rest of the sheet so it doesn’t bend). Whichever side really sticks – that’s the printable side. However, if you print full-bleed (borderless), this may mar the print in that corner, so proceed with caution. This is my favorite paper of those tested for this review. Prints have a tactile quality and beautiful depth, yet easily hold their crisp clarity.

• Hot Press Bright (letter-size).  18 mil (= 0.4572). USAGE NOTE: even though the package label identifies the printable side, both sides are printable (from information gleaned from other Epson websites). On the P600, select the option Ultrasmooth Fine Art paper.

 
You can find more information on Epson professional imaging media by clicking here.  
 
Epson also sent a couple of roll papers, but I didn’t have any panoramas that I felt worthy of using that much ink. When I do, I’ll update this review. (One of these rolls is canvas, and previous experience has taught me to be careful when using this substrate, to prevent clogging of print heads. So, even though it’s possible to simply print standard print sizes and manually cut as needed, I’m opting not to go this route.)

Posted 7/22/2015 on www.shutterbug.com.

I’ve worked with Adobe Photoshop since it was first introduced. While it wasn’t my favorite image editing software initially, Photoshop grew on me as its capabilities grew, and it has become my go-to editor outside Lightroom.

In fact, Photoshop has led the field among image editors for as long as I can remember. It’s a robust package with an array of tools that far surpasses what many of us would normally use—although, granted, it’s nice to know they’re there when needed. And no pro photographer I know would consider abandoning Photoshop in favor of a fledgling software application. Not just yet, anyway.

However, for the many photo enthusiasts who have yet to dabble in Photoshop or who find it too unwieldy or intimidating, or downright too expensive, something new is always an enticement. This is especially true in light of Adobe’s recent and controversial subscription-based Creative Cloud service, which many photographers balk at. Even some pros I know prefer to stick with the tried-and-true, standard desktop versions to the Cloud-based subscription versions.

Well, Affinity Photo from Serif Labs is here to address the naysayers among us. First of all, it’s available at a one-time price, and a very inviting one at that: for $49.99, you get not only the software, but also all future updates and releases. Affinity Photo is available from the Mac App Store—currently (and likely for the foreseeable future) Mac OS X only, 10.7 or later, 64-bit processor—courtesy of Serif Labs. READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.

Posted 7/7/2015 on www.shutterbug.com.

Lightroom has always been available as retail standalone software that you buy, install, update, and pay to upgrade when applicable. Well, that has changed, in part, thanks to the Adobe Creative Cloud, which unleashed a torrent of cloud-integrated apps, among them Lightroom CC.

I wasn’t convinced of the necessity to dive into the cloud when Photoshop CC was first introduced, choosing instead to remain firmly grounded with CS6. But things took a turn that would force my hand when Adobe chose to no longer support Lightroom 5 with updates. When testing new cameras and lenses, I found myself resorting to Photoshop CS6 so I’d have access to the latest Adobe Camera Raw (ACR). I was at a crossroads. Creative Cloud, show me what you’ve got. READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.

Posted 5/28/2015 on www.shutterbug.com.

Shutterbug was fortunate enough to secure a loan of a pre-production version of the much-anticipated EOS 5DS R DSLR for testing and we were off and running with it as soon as it arrived. You’ve no doubt read our earlier report about this camera and its nearly identical twin the 5DS, each boasting a whopping 50.6MP full-frame sensor, which makes them the world’s highest resolution full-frame DSLRs

And undoubtedly your mouth started watering.

Face it, everyone is always clambering to buy the latest and the greatest, but you should also ask yourself, what will I use it for and what will it add to my photography? And perhaps the bigger question, is it time to switch (or switch back) to Canon?

Ever since medium format digital cameras and backs have been hitting us with pixel counts in the stratosphere, the DSLR world has been scrambling to catch up. But those medium-format backs have a purpose: they meet client needs, usually high-end advertising. And it’s not only the high resolution, which sits on a larger sensor, no less. These larger cameras also offer 16-bit color depth, in contrast to the 14-bit capture typically available to our higher-end 35mm style cameras.  But there are many more applications that are not as demanding or that require high mobility, and that is where a 50MP DSLR will find its niche. READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.

Posted 5/20/2015 on www.shutterbug.com.

There was a time when I’d avoid a zoom lens as much as I’d avoid a swarm of midges. But in the digital age, the zoom lens has taken on new purpose, at least for me. Midges, however, are still a pest that is best avoided—especially when you’re changing lenses. And if you’re out in a marsh shooting spectacular scenic views, the Canon EF 11-24mm f/4L USM lens gives you the needed range of focal lengths so you can reign supreme over any landscape, as you avoid changing lenses while sidestepping concern that those midges will infiltrate your camera. READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.

Posted 5/13/2015 on www.shutterbug.com.

I thought that Tamron had outdone itself first with its 70-300mm lens and then with the 24-70mm f/2.8  and 90mm f/2.8 Macro lenses: all bearing the SP (super performance), VC (vibration compensation), Di (digitally integrated primarily for full-frame sensors), and USD (ultrasonic silent drive) monikers. There are of course other noteworthy lenses in the lineup, but these are the ones I tested for Shutterbug. Now comes the impressive Tamron SP15-30mm f/2.8 Di FC USD, which the company first previewed way back at photokina 2014. With this lens Tamron has created a near-flawless masterpiece in optics that simply blew me away!

I tested this full-frame Tamron SP15-30mm f/2.8 lens on a Nikon D610, with Picture Control set to Standard (default settings). Raw images were processed first in Adobe Lightroom and, because Lightroom 5 doesn’t yet directly support this lens with a specific profile, I post-processed the files in Adobe Photoshop, which does offer a profile for this glass. Processing was carried out with sharpness at the default settings in each application. (Note: Lightroom CC now supports this lens.) READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.

I'm a big fan of photo backpacks, and always have been. I find them eminently suited to practically every type of shooting I do away from my home base. In fact, I keep specific gear packed in individual backpacks so I'll be ready to go, with just minor tweaks, as needed. 

Over the past few years, I've grown to love packs from Think Tank Photo, and more recently from their affiliated younger sibling, MindShift Gear. In fact, packs from these two companies have been my go-to bags for practically every photo outing and are the only backpacks I trust to do the job these days. Think Tank has packs geared more toward travel and location photography, whereas MindShift directs its efforts primarily toward the great outdoors, as well as travel. Bags from the two companies are distinctly their own - there's nothing else like them on the market. And each company's packs are easily distinguishable from the other.

Now, with regard to the packs we're reviewing, the newest are (with the latest first), MindShift's FirstLight 20L and rotation180 Horizon, followed by Think Tank's StreetWalker. The FirstLight series is geared toward DLSRs with physically long lenses attached, whereas the rotation series aims at instant readiness in any environment, with considerably shorter lenses on the camera, to put it simply. The StreetWalker has been around for awhile. As the name implies, it's primarily designed for use on the street, but is so compact and utilitarian, you'll want to take it everywhere. 

These three packs are water-repellant and constructed with an ultra-strong, ultra-durable nylon shell.  The MindShift packs in particular are designed to weather the harshest of conditions. All these backpacks are fully padded, with customizable interiors. What's more, they're relatively lightweight without compromising construction or their ability to protect my valuable gear.

FIRSTLIGHT 20L (Click highlighted text for more info.)
I loved this bag from the moment I laid eyes on it. First, it's sleek in appearance, with nice, clean lines. Second, there are two ways to carry a tripod built in--over the front or on either side. I carried a compact Sirui carbon-fiber pod, but my larger Giotto's would also have made a good fit. The side that's free can hold a water bottle (something in the order of a 16 oz bottle). The FirstLight 30L and 40L (L = internal capacity, in liters) will also hold a hydration bladder (optional), as well as more and bigger gear. Third, it comes with its own seam-sealed (translation: keeps water out) rain cover.

To further ensure your comfort, the pack comes with an aluminum stay. The backpack suspension system is especially noteworthy. Unlike most photo backpacks, this bag is adjustable for torso length. This affects how you carry the pack and your comfort level for the long haul. The only pack in recent memory that was arguably a better fit is the rotation180 Pro. To further ensure your comfort, the pack comes with an aluminum stay.

In addition to the heavily padded, contoured, breathable shoulder harness, the pack comes with airflow back padding with lumbar support, a fully adjustable sternum (chest) strap - with a whistle, no less, and fully padded and fully adjustable waist belt. In fact, the waist belt was designed to wrap around to the front so that it takes up less space in storage and to keep the padded wings (flaps) out of the way. There are also compression straps to further secure the bag and add to its comfort: load lifters attached to the shoulder straps on top, stabilizers on the waist belt. Remember, the basic idea behind all these adjustments is to take the weight off your shoulders during long hikes and to keep the bag stable on uneven terrain. The sternum strap also helps keep the shoulder straps from sliding off the shoulder. On city streets, you can make do with just the shoulder harness, as I did - makes removing the bag that much quicker. 

The only way they could have made this a more pleasurable experience is with an instructional video illustrating the torso adjustment and overall fit of the pack (I had to play around with it to get it just right). There is, however, a set of instructions inside the bag.

The pack has two roomy front pockets, plus one small one on top (I would have also liked an organizer pocket for a pen, pad, and other small stuff). The largest of these pockets will hold up to a 15-inch laptop, but you'll have to provide your own padded sleeve. I'd normally carry a light jacket in that pocket. There are additional see-through pockets inside. 

Now to the key feature of the FirstLight series. These packs are designed to hold a DSLR (HD-SLR) with long lens attached. For the FirstLight 20L, maximum lens size attached to the camera body, according to MindShift, is a 200–400mm f/4 or 300 f/2.8, with room to spare for additional lenses, shoe-mount flash, and accessories. Because of the bag's shallow depth, some lenses that I would have stored vertically (upright) in another pack had to be stored horizontally (lengthwise). Still, what I particularly liked is that the bag holds the camera snugly in place. I had to adjust one of the vertical (long) partitions to accommodate the width of my Nikon D610, but that was it.

The limited depth did have one other consequence: I had to detach the sling strap that I normally leave attached to the bottom of the camera (this may vary with sling strap design). The 30L should have no problem dealing with sling straps or with standing some lenses on end. That should be even less of a problem with the much more spacious 40L.


Street price/FirstLight 20L: $229.99 direct; $229.99 @B&H

ROTATION180 HORIZON (Click highlighted text for more info.)

There isn't that much more to say about this version of the rotation180 other than it's bigger than the Panorama (read that review here). 

Well, concomitant with that larger size comes a roomier rotating waist-belt camera pack. Aside from that, the Horizon accepts the same optional camera insert as the Panorama, but leaves room to spare, which is a big plus in my book. With the insert, the Panorama left practically no room for anything else. Now, with the Horizon, you can store that light jacket, some snacks, and a guidebook or two, and even make room for a tablet, plus additional pockets give you added space. There is a pocket on the side that will hold a water bottle, but it's not mesh, meaning the bottle could slip out on a rugged trail. To counter that, this pack will also hold a hydration bladder (optional). Rain covers for the main pack and belt pack are optional.

While not on the same level as the rotation180 Pro, the shoulder harness and related straps on this pack make for a comfortable and secure carrying system. Inexplicably, I found the waist belt release mechanism that governs the rotating belt pack easier to use on this backpack than on either the Pro or Panorama.

Suffice to say, this pack has replaced both the rotation Pro and Panorama packs. I do wish it stood on its own (which is true of the Pro, as well as the other packs reviewed here). Still, it awaits the next snowfall, when I won't need to put the pack down on a wet or muddy surface to get at my camera with lens attached - that's what the rotating belt pack is for. And if I do set it down, I'll know I can access the remainder of my gear through the top panel, without laying the bag flat on the ground.

Street price/Rotation180º Horizon: $259.99 direct; $259.99 @B&H

STREETWALKER (Click highlighted text for more info.)

The StreetWalker proved the ideal choice for a recent trip to Hawaii. I wasn't initially certain whether I'd be checking any luggage or not, but, in case I didn't, I wanted to be sure my camera bag would be big enough to hold the needed gear yet would fit comfortably and unquestionably underneath the seat in front of me on each flight, going and coming. And all this without compromising the security of the gear or my comfort. What I didn't know at the time is that the bag would have to fit in the storage compartment on a helicopter and a storage locker on a boat.

Prior to this trip, I'd been using the StreetWalker Pro when tooling about town, but found it too spacious for my Nikon D610. Plus, as I mentioned, I wanted something small - something that would accompany me onboard as a "Personal" item if need be. When the smaller StreetWalker arrived, I inserted my D610 with a Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 lens and Nikon SB-700 flash. That left room for the Samsung NX500 and any additional Samsung lenses I'd be receiving (on loan) during my Hawaii stay. And it all fit uncrowded yet snug enough so nothing would be bouncing around (I generally make use of unused dividers to ensure a snug fit, or add a couple of spares from an old bag).

Several pockets, including an organizer pocket, keep you organized, with additional pockets for a water bottle on either side. Carrying a tripod with this pack is not as convenient as with the larger StreetWalker Pro, but is certainly doable and without any major inconvenience. And it comes with a rain cover.

So, not only did the StreetWalker fit nicely underneath the seat on the plane, but it had no complaints when relegated to the storage area of either the sightseeing helicopter or the whale watching boat. And I was a happy camper - er, photographer.

Street price/StreetWalker: $169.75 direct; $169.75 @ B&H and Adorama

In Conclusion
I can't say enough good things about MindShift Gear's newest FirstLight 20L as well as the rotation180 Horizon and Think Tank Photo's older StreetWalker. They're all comfy, do a great job keeping my gear well balanced on my back and protecting my gear, and are a perfect fit for my various needs, whether it's communing with nature, walking the streets of Chicago, flying in a helicopter, or whale watching in a motorized inflatable craft. I always felt assured that my gear was secure, and I never felt worn out after any shooting experience with these packs.

(Click highlighted text for more info.)
FIRSTLIGHT 20L 
ROTATION180 HORIZON 
STREETWALKER

Which Backpack Should I Get?
Listed in order of preference under each criterion...
- If you carry a long, fast lens attached to the camera: FIRSTLIGHT 20L
- If you carry a short, fast or short zoom lens attached to the camera and need it ready to go at a moment's notice: ROTATION180º HORIZON
- If you're a wildlife, landscape, or travel photographer: FIRSTLIGHT 20L, ROTATION180º HORIZON
- If you expect to be on foot for long periods at a stretch: FIRSTLIGHT 20L, ROTATION180º HORIZON
- If you expect to be negotiating rugged terrain or spend extensive time in wilderness areas: ROTATION180º HORIZON, FIRSTLIGHT 20L
- If you expect to be on snowy, wet, muddy terrain (especially anywhere you can't conveniently put the bag down to access gear): ROTATION180º HORIZON**
- If you need a backpack that is airline-friendly*: STREETWALKER, FIRSTLIGHT 20L, ROTATION180º HORIZON
- If you carry a tripod: FIRSTLIGHT 20L, ROTATION180º HORIZON, STREETWALKER 
- If you carry a laptop: FIRSTLIGHT 20L 
- If you carry a tablet: FIRSTLIGHT 20L, ROTATION180º HORIZON
- If you want a backpack that's compact and cozy yet capable of carrying a small DSLR outfit comfortably: STREETWALKER
- If you want a backpack for light travel photography: STREETWALKER

*Subject to individual airline carry-on allowances.
**The FirstLight 20L has a ruggedized bottom panel, but does require it to be positioned on the ground for access to gear, whereas you can grab a camera and lens out of the Rotation180º rotating hip belt on the fly while still wearing the pack.

(Click highlighted text for more info.)
FIRSTLIGHT 20L 
ROTATION180 HORIZON 
STREETWALKER

Posted 5/11/2015 on www.shutterbug.com.

I’ve often wished I had a camera that could go from 24mm to 2000mm at the touch of a button and without being weighed down by a ton of glass. Okay, maybe not all the way to 2000mm and perhaps not in a power zoom, but you get my point. The Nikon Coolpix P900 superzoom (super-duper-zoom?) camera gives you that reach in a fairly compact body, relative to a lens with such a broad range of focal lengths.

And the Nikon P900 does so in a camera build that looks and feels like a lightweight DSLR, more or less. This combination is what initially enticed me to take a closer look at this new Cooplix model from Nikon. But are the Nikon P900’s eye-popping zoom specs just glitz or is there a substantial picture-taking machine underneath this façade? READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.

Posted 4/1/2015 on www.shutterbug.com.

If you’re going to test a new camera, I can think of few places better suited than the Big Island of Hawaii. And that’s precisely what I, and a number of my colleagues in the photo press, had a chance to do recently with the new 28-megapixel Samsung NX500 camera. We put Samsung’s newest mirrorless compact system camera (CSC) through its paces in diverse settings on the island, each designed to challenge the NX500 and ourselves. READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.

Posted 4/15/2015 on www.shutterbug.com.

The first question I’d ask of any camera is this: Is this camera a good fit for me—for my hand, for my style of shooting, for what I want to shoot?

I’ve been looking for a compact interchangeable-lens camera that I could easily carry around when I didn’t need my full-bodied Nikon D610. Yet, I don’t want to compromise image quality or the versatility that my D610 system affords me. So the obvious choices are a mirrorless compact system camera or just a smaller DSLR.

With mirrorless, I’d have to invest in a whole new system. And with DSLRs, well, we have the same cost involvement—unless I remain faithful to the Nikon system. Which led me to the Nikon D5500 compact DSLR. This camera features an articulated touch screen for Live View movie shooting and still captures, along with a typical optical viewfinder for the bulk of my still photography—I like optical finders.

And with its 24MP, albeit APS-C  (cropped), CMOS sensor, I have the real estate to crop or print large. Moreover, the D5500 lacks an optical low-pass filter, which is a step toward capturing sharper images, a feature found in much more expensive cameras, such as the D810, as well as the new D7200. And the D5500 has the grit to tackle low light levels with its top ISO of 25,600. What’s more, wireless enthusiasts will welcome the built-in Wi-Fi, and video lovers will appreciate its full HD capture. And all this and more is driven by the EXPEED 4 image-processing engine.

Still, that’s all well and good, but would the D5500 allow me to effectively respond to my subject and would it impinge on my shooting style? READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.

Posted 1/16/2015 on www.shutterbug.com. Originally published in Shutterbug Magazine.

One outing with the new Nikon D810 pro digital SLR convinced me that this camera is not only thoughtfully designed, a good fit, and easy to work with right out of the box, but that it’s also a solid performer that’s beautifully crafted. It has looks, smarts, and savvy, without being pretentious. And unlike enthusiast and entry-level cameras, it’s not filled with a bunch of useless toys no one really needs, wants, or uses (well, except for maybe a few of the post/retouching effects that seem to be wasted on this camera).

Boasting a new and improved 36.3-megapixel CMOS sensor, the FX-format (full-frame) D810 ($3296, body only) is decidedly a serious camera aimed at the serious—translation, professional—still photo and video shooter. This camera incorporates features first introduced in the D610 and D7100, while paving new ground. Making it an even better camera than its D800-series progenitors is one missing element, for starters. READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.

Posted 9/14/2014 on www.shutterbug.com.

(Editor’s Note: Shutterbug contributor Jack Neubart has been testing the new Nikon D810 pro digital SLR. Here’s his hands-on “first look” at the camera. His full review of the D810 will appear in an upcoming issue of Shutterbug magazine.)

I became a Nikon convert back when the D300 was first introduced in 2007. I appreciated the camera’s handling, but mostly they got me with the Creative Lighting System, or CLS. Specifically, on the D300 it was the fully integrated wireless Commander mode via the built-in flash that grabbed my attention.

But I wasn’t entirely happy in the APS-C sensor realm. I wanted a full-frame DSLR and the affordable D600 made that possible. With it’s built-in flash, the D600 let me continue to enjoy wireless flash photography sans peripherals, other than an SB-900 Speedlight.

The new 36.3-megapixel Nikon D810 ($3,296) full-frame pro DSLR builds on that, sporting its own pop-up flash. I even built up my arsenal of FX-compatible lenses. I was largely done with having to extrapolate focal lengths and handholdable shutter speeds around a cropped sensor.

More importantly, with the full-frame sensor, especially the one in the D810, I have the real estate to crop and still have plenty of image to play with. That’s especially relevant when correcting perspective in architectural shots in Lightroom. With the D810’s 36.3 million pixels occupying a CMOS sensor measuring 35.9 x 24mm (FX-format), you can take in the entire structure with plenty of room to spare to fully correct for converging verticals without fear of chopping off vital structural elements, such as the top of a bell tower. READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.

Shoe-mounted flashes are handy tools. Where space or weight is a concern, a kit with two or three shoe-mounted flashes is much easier to carry than even the smallest power pack/head combo or a low-output monolight, and more versatile.

Case in point, on two separate photography assignments I employed no more than two shoe-mount strobes to light-paint the huge blue whale model exhibited at New York’s American Museum of Natural History (in collaboration with museum photo staff). In fact, there is an entire subculture among pros that favors shoe-mount strobes – aka “strobists” – over bulky and expensive studio lighting gear for location work and even in the studio.

The dedication to the shoe-mounted flash for other than run-and-gun photography is largely centered on finding portable lighting gear that will reliably deliver the kind of results we expect of larger strobes.

Among the “third party” shoe-mount strobes I’ve come to trust is the Metz brand. Reliable German engineering and a long-standing reputation reinforce that trust. And the company’s new flagship Mecablitz 64 AF-1 digital flash promises to keep that reputation intact. Metz also makes my favorite ring flash, the wireless and ultra-compact Mecablitz 15 MS-1, which also played a part in this review.

The Mecablitz 64 AF-1 retails for $449 and is available in versions for Nikon, Canon, Sony, Olympus, Panasonic, and Pentax cameras. I tested the Nikon version of the flash. READ THE ENTIRE REVIEW.