​Not long ago, I reviewed the Airport Security V3.0 rolling camera case from Think Tank. I couldn’t sing its praises loud enough.

Well, the TakeOff V2.0 may unseat the Security as my favorite roller, and here’s why. (For reasons why you should use a roller for your camera gear in the first place, I direct you to that earlier review.)
 
At the outset we should point out that all of Think Tank’s Airport-series rollers are what we’d consider “soft-sided” luggage. That means it's fabric-covered and pliable yet quite rigid.
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​Airport TakeOff V2.0 vs the Original Airport TakeOff
On the surface, they appear to be very similar. You’d be hard pressed to tell the difference. However, there are a few noteworthy design changes, from what I can discern in the specifications.
 
To begin, the new bag uses a 1680D nylon shell, which is better quality, higher density, and more abrasion-resistant than the 420D used in the original. Second, whereas both employ user-replaceable in-line skate wheels, V2 uses “high performance, 80mm super-quiet wheels with sealed bearings.” Not having used the original, I can’t speak to a quantifiable difference, but I can say that the new wheels are smooth-rolling and super quiet. The Airport Security uses the same wheels, so there was no need to put them through the same tests. Suffice to say, they pass muster on carpet, cracked pavement, and grass.
 
Aside from that, the pocket that was originally inside the cover flap has moved to the outside, for faster access, except that it’s fully opaque nylon, not see-through plastic. There are also some cosmetic differences and the included tethered lock has been moved to the side, underneath the side padded handle.
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​Airport TakeOff V2.0 vs Airport Security V3.0
The TakeOff has a smaller profile than the Security, so it should be a better fit in the overhead on smaller aircraft. That said, you should always check airline allowances before packing your gear and leaving for the airport.
 
The Security is designed to serve as the name implies. The primary lock is built into the case, with both zipper pulls (the metal tabs) locking in place inside the combination lock – it’s an ingenious design! The tethered lock, however, is a standard combination lock and removable from the tether. Both are TSA-compliant (meaning TSA can easily unlock them if needed).
 
The TakeOff features only a tethered combination lock, also TSA-compliant, but this lock is permanently attached to the tether. And the tether is much shorter here than on the other bag, if that matters. Also, as mentioned, the tether is found on the side of the bag, in contrast to the top-loading tether on the Security (not sure if that really makes a difference from a practical standpoint). The zippers to the TakeOff’s camera section are interlocking to accept the TSA combination lock.
 
The front pockets on the two rollers are different, yet similar in some ways. Both will hold a laptop plus tablet. The laptop sleeve on the TakeOff is a smidge larger and appears to have thicker padding in front. The TakeOff will hold my 17” Gateway with protruding battery attached. This laptop is quite thick. The fit was snug, and removing the battery would have been a prudent move. The TakeOff features an organizer pocket, whereas, oddly, this feature is missing on the other roller.

The biggest difference between the two cases is in how you access the outside compartments. On the Security, everything but the outer mesh front pocket, is zippered, with interlocking zippers – hence, lockable. The TakeOff lacks the large outer mesh pocket, and only the organizer pocket is zippered – but with no way to secure it. The laptop/tablet sleeves are accessible via a snap-closure mechanism – not at all difficult to get into when your back is turned. So you wouldn't want to leave the TakeOff with a stranger while you head to the restroom or while you step away for a quick cup of java.

An even greater overriding concern for some of you: If you work with pro-grip DSLRs, then you'll definitely choose the deeper Security over the TakeOff. A point that should not be overlooked.
 
The telescoping handle is fully exposed on the Security, whereas on the TakeOff it is hidden beneath a zippered flap, and for good reason. What really sets the TakeOff apart from the Security and other Think Tank Airport rollers is the built-in backpack harness.

​Why a Backpack Harness?
Despite the fact that Think Tank does a really nice job with its padded handles, making them ultra-comfy and ultra-strong, there are times when you want to move more quickly and with better balance over uneven, perhaps gravelly, rock-strewn, or muddy terrain, and hand-carrying just won’t cut it.
 
Carrying a roller by the handle makes you kind of wobbly. Besides, you may need your hands free to carry something else or to help you negotiate stairs or rough terrain. Enter the backpack harness.
 
Unlike the traditional backpack harness found on rollers equipped with these straps, where you first have to attach the harness or go through some lengthy process of digging them out, using the harness on the TakeOff couldn’t be easier. Unzip a flap on the back, and voila! You’ve unveiled the backpack straps. They slide out and back in effortlessly.
 
The first thing you’ll notice is that the flap leading to the harness secures to the bottom of the case and out of the way via hook-and-loop material, popularly known as Velcro. What you will notice is that these shoulder straps don’t extend all the way down to the bottom edge of the case – at least not from the outside. That means there’s no waist belt, which is unnecessary in this kind of arrangement.  There is, however, a sternum (chest) strap to help secure the bag so it doesn’t shift weight as you’re trekking over rocky areas.
 
Granted, this is a heavier setup than a traditional soft-sided backpack alone without wheels or cart handle. But you won’t be going on long hikes. You’re just donning the harness to negotiate a short stretch of difficult terrain, or to climb the stairs. (Advisory: never drag the case up stairs or lift it by the telescoping handle. Always hand-carry it in such instances, or use the backpack harness.)

​In Use
Rollers traditionally have one failing. To allow for the wheelbase and telescoping handle, sections of the interior are raised, leaving what we might describe as wells or channels. You can simply work around that  without it hampering you in the least. I arranged my gear in minutes.

The interior lets you stash two bodies sans pro-grip with attached lenses and a whole slew of additional glass and one or two shoe-mounts besides. There are more than enough padded dividers and many of these are hook-and-loop compatible, letting you configure the interior to your heart’s content.
 
As for the backpack straps… Well, keep in mind this is not a traditional backpack. Owing to the constricted way the straps extend outside the bag (not as loose as the traditional harness), the straps did pinch a bit under the arms, but not to the point of unbearable discomfort. You should try it out for yourself, as all body types are different. Remember: these straps are just a temporary means of traversing terrain that would prove difficult for wheeled luggage. In the main, wheeling this case along is just a dream.

​Materials (per Think Tank Photo)
Exterior: For superior water-resistance, all exterior fabric has a durable water repellent (DWR) coating, plus underside of fabric has a polyurethane coating. The roller bags are also constructed with 1680D ballistic nylon, YKK RC Fuse (abrasion-resistant) zippers, custom designed extra tall skid plates, high performance 80mm super quiet wheels with sealed bearings, SpanKodra front pocket, rubberized laminate reinforcement, nylon webbing, and 3-ply bonded nylon thread.
 
Interior: 210D silver-toned nylon, polyurethane backed Velex liner and dividers, 2x polyurethane coated nylon 210T seam-sealed rain cover, closed-cell foam and reinforced

Specifications (per Think Tank Photo)
Internal Dimensions: 13” W x 18.5” H x 5.3 – 6.8” D (33 x 47 x 13–17 cm)
Exterior Dimensions: 14” W x 21” H x 8” D (35.5 x 53 x 22 cm)
Laptop Pocket: 11.4” W x 16.3” H x 1.4” D (29 x 41.5 x 3.6 cm)
Tablet Pocket: 9.8” W x 9.4” H x 0.8” D (25 x 24 x 2 cm)
Weight: 7.0–8.7 lbs. (3.2–3.9 kg) depending on accessories used
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Where can I get more info/order this product?
Think Tank Photo
 
Manufacturer:
Think Tank Photo

How much is it?
$369.75

​Until now my forays into panoramic photography were limited to what I could do with my regular Acratech ballheads. When I first set out to shoot panos, I didn’t pay attention to a certain feature on these heads—that being that you can remove the quick-release clamp from the top of the head and re-mount it to the bottom. You then effectively attach the head to the tripod upside down. I’m not quite clear on what difference it makes except that you somehow create a more efficient, built-in leveling base that works in tandem with the head as a whole. This feature is available on most Acratech ballheads, the notable exception being the new Nomad.
 
Anyway, so when I first set out to shoot panoramas I ended up making do with the head in its original configuration. I would level the head and visually determine the overlap from frame to frame. It seemed to work – at least when generating panoramas in Lightroom, using its Photo Merge/Panorama feature. But I wanted more – I wanted tighter control over my panos and I wanted to try dedicated pano software for this process.
 
So my next step was to talk to Acratech about their pano gear. It’s still somewhat of a learning process, especially in terms of the software – I opted to use PTGui (review to come). But I now feel that I have a much better handle on it, with a greater understanding and appreciation for what’s involved. And that wouldn’t be possible without this Acratech gear.

Note: be sure to click Read More for a guide to Determining the Nodal Point and 10 Tips to Successful Panoramas.

The Acratech Armada
Acratech sent me their Panoramic Head, Leveling Base, L-Bracket, and Nodal Rail. Let’s address each in turn. While I could have added an Acratech QR plate as well, I opted to stick with my Giottos universal QR plate. I should add that Acratech makes plates custom designed around numerous camera bodies and lens tripod mounts with a special back lip that prevents accidental rotation.
 
Panoramic Head. This is a work of art in itself! Much like its siblings, it could easily be mistaken for a museum piece were it not so practical to work with. It’s sexy and solid. Movements are fluid and all the knobs work smoothly and effortlessly, locking firmly in place, with no fear that they’d come loose or shift my viewpoint upon tightening (something heads of lesser quality are known to do). Aside from etched markings for horizontal panoramic movement, there are also marked settings for vertical movement, so the head can easily be used for multi-row panos. For the horizontal panos, there is a movable indicator to notate your starting point. What’s more, the QR clamp rotates (for camera positioning as needed) but does lock in place. And the head is fully compatible with all tripods. This head easily fits on the Acratech Leveling Base (strongly recommended). Verdict: the Acratech Panoramic Head is the perfect tool for the job.
 
Leveling Base with stud. There are two types of leveling base that I’ve come across in researching the topic. One type uses three- or four-point leveling. The Acratech base uses one-point leveling, meaning, the base pivots around a central axis. Less to fuss with, as I see it. The base screws right onto the tripod. There is also a Large Leveling Base, for larger still heads and professional video heads, and a Leveling Base with QR Clamp, for direct mounting of a camera (with QR plate) to the base. A large bulls-eye spirit level makes it easy to level the base. Verdict: With the Acratech Level Base, I can get the camera level or at least to within a few degrees in a minute or two. May take a bit more finessing with the camera mounted, owing to greater torque, but certainly doable.
 
Universal L-Bracket. This bracket is a practical necessity to allow you to simply and effortlessly shoot vertical panos without throwing off camera alignment. It quickly lets you switch from vertical back to horizontal shooting. A larger version, the Extended Universal L-Bracket, is available for cameras with battery grip and oversize bodies. The bracket attaches to the nodal rail. For verticals, the raised L should be on the right, to allow enough room for the grip. When shooting horizontals, that part of the bracket resides on the left. Verdict: it’s so much easier to go from horizontal to vertical and back again with the Acratech L-Bracket, without spoiling the framing. My one concern – attaching the Nikon wired release MC-DC2 being hampered by the bracket – quickly dissolved, thanks to the open channel in the bracket.
 
Nodal Slide. This nodal rail is what you need to ensure accurate, parallax-free frame-to-frame alignment, regardless of which lens you use. There are two stops that you can lock in place to guide positioning of two separate focal lengths (the provided hex wrench lets you adjust them on the fly). Meaning, you don’t have to mark down the positions of the lens along the rail, as you’d ordinarily need to do with conventional rails. The camera, alone or on the L-bracket, just slides into the designated position marked by the stop. The clamp knob should be facing you. The clamp rotates by releasing the hex screw on the bottom (using the hex wrench) to orient the camera as needed. (Of necessity, the orientation changes when using the L bracket.) Verdict: those two stops along the Nodal Slide are a game-changer. Unless you use more than two focal lengths, you’ll find setting up for the lens’s sweet spot to avoid parallax is fast and effortless. And if you need to change it on the fly, that’s quickly doable as well.
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​In Use
This was my first time working with a panoramic head, L-bracket, leveling base, and nodal rail, despite my many years as a photographer. They’re just not tools I found I needed till now. And now that I’ve found them, I wish I’d had them decades before, although I’m not sure I would have had the wherewithal to make the best use of them back then. What’s more, for many years I simply preferred to shoot handheld. So all this extra gear would just have been gathering dust.
 
Not today. I’ve got my MindShift Gear backpacks configured so they easily tote the Acratech panoramic components along with my Giottos carbon fiber tripod. By “configured,” I mean, I’ve made sure they’d fit easily in the bag without bumping up against other gear or me having to dig for them. Granted, owing to its L shape, the L-bracket is the most cumbersome to carry. I do leave the leveling base attached to the head, since they neatly and snugly fit in one modular section in the pack. (Your mileage may vary.)
 
What I don’t do is leave all this attached to the tripod, because it makes for awkward portage, especially when carried along the side of the pack. And whether side- or front-carried, the head alone (or seated on the leveling base) sticks up, so that it might catch on something or bump into things along the way. Leaving the rail and bracket attached on top of that just compounds the situation. Sure, if you’re going by car or hand-carrying, then leave everything in place on the tripod, although that awkwardness does manifest itself when schlepping the tripod by hand from one location to the other. Remember, the added gear does make the tripod considerably more top-heavy.
 
As to actual use, once I got past the intimidation factor, it was smooth sailing. I’m still mastering the art of the panorama, but I’m confident that I have a firm handle on it, thanks to this Acratech gear.
 
Acratech is a master at designing and machining components that fit well together and fit well in your workflow. I did have to go back to the company’s online tutorial videos once or twice before everything clicked, but now, even in extreme cold conditions, I can manage to rig the tripod in moments ready to shoot panoramas. I’m still getting the hang of the stitching process vis-à-vis the software (specifically, PTGui) but mastering that phase of it is next on my agenda.
 
Zeroing out the bubble level on the leveling base proved fairly effortless. I’d recommend carrying out this operation before attaching the head, but certainly before mounting the camera onto this rig. The greater torque with the added load works counter to making easy adjustments. 

Conclusions
A couple of points worth noting. When using my more stable tripods, I didn’t find it necessary, to lock down the panorama knob on the Acratech pano head as I panned with the camera. This way I could quickly move from one exposure or bracket set to the next. And you can avoid the nodal rail entirely when shooting fisheye panoramas. (Despite claims to the contrary, a fisheye lens can be used – just expect some distortion.)
 
Admittedly, when you add all the components together, shooting panoramas becomes an expensive proposition. But it also has potentially great rewards. And once you’ve got a handle on the mechanics of shooting panoramas, you next find yourself muddling over the software and trying to make heads or tails out of, why don’t these frames fit together the way they’re supposed to? Frankly, it’s a serious commitment in money, time – and patience.
 
There’s one thing in this Acratech gear that puts you on the right footing: Every component has a bullseye level, so you can start working on a level playing field – literally.
 
The pano head itself has a drag/friction knob. Ease back on this just a bit so it allows some movement as you twist the main knob and move the camera. It may take a while to find the sweet spot to control drag for your rig, but keep in mind that the amount of drag will have to be adjusted for different loads. Once locked in place, the camera stays put – there’s no shift when locking the knobs and no drift after the camera is locked in place.
 
In fact, if you’ve worked with any Acratech ball head, working with the pano head shouldn’t be much of a stretch. The only difference: the pano head tilts only front to back, not side to side, as would be the case with a regular ball head. This keeps you level. The forward/backward tilt, aside from leveling the head initially, is to allow you to build horizontal layers and add depth top to bottom so the panorama doesn’t begin to look like a strip mall.
 
Final word: the Acratech pano gear is an investment that will pay for itself before long. As with anything, mastering panoramic photography will take time and patience. But the Acratech gear will put you on the right path and put you on solid footing.