​Back at Abraham Lincoln High School, in Brooklyn, I was captain of the AV Squad – might have only been for one semester, or for the full year. It’s a faint memory. But any way you slice it, yup, I was a geek or nerd, or whatever term was popular at the time. I didn’t really enjoy it. Mostly we were responsible for setting up film projectors. Admittedly, I was terrible at threading the projector, so I’d try to send someone out other than myself when that job was required. I don’t remember using a slide projector back then, but I’m sure that was woven into the fabric of the AV Squad.
 
It wasn’t till years later, as a professional photographer, that I started working with a slide projector in earnest – a Kodak Ektagraphic, to be precise. I became a whiz at running that projector. After all, I didn’t have to thread anything. And I didn’t have a bunch of strangers looking on making me nervous.
 
Fast forward to the 21st century and the digital age. Projecting digital files now required a digital projector. So when I tried my hand at conducting my own photo workshops, I turned to Epson. Little did I realize what a painless experience running a digital projector would prove to be. In fact, one might say it was fun.
 
When I sent Epson pics of the space I’d be using initially, they recommended a brighter projector than I’d at first requested. The projector they sent me on temporary loan was the EX9200. Along with it, they sent a screen. Again, they found a more suitable choice than the one I’d originally requested. They sent the ES3000 Ultra Portable Projector Screen.

​Setting Up and Using the EX9200 Projector and ES3000 Screen
I removed the projector from its soft, padded case. (Note: if you’ll be carrying this around extensively, you might want to look into a more substantial case, with a better carrying strap system). Then I plugged the AC cord into an outlet at one end, the projector at the other.
 
With the projector turned on, the rest seemed to happen as if by magic. I connected the EX9200 to my iMac via USB and everything went smoothly after that. Absolutely no bumps or hiccups to report. Using the projector with a flash drive for that first workshop proceeded flawlessly. The only thing worthy of note: I recommend you get a separate laser pointer. The laser pointer built into the remote drags across the screen and proved counterproductive. Other than that, working with the wireless remote was a breeze.
 
Setting up the screen seemed more intimidating. It had been a very long time since I’d last set up a projection screen. This one was big and clunky, and the illustration that served as the only instructions that came with it didn’t help. But this thing is built so tough that it’s hard to do any damage, and eventually it stood tall and facing the projector squarely. For a test run, I’d set the projector up on a small step stool, making sure to leave room for the cooling air vents.
 
Since it was a sample, the screen arrived without its roller case. Luckily, the classroom I’d be using for my first workshop was right across the street. So schlepping it there was easy enough – and I had help bringing it back.

​In the past, working with the PM-260, I’d output a stack of prints from this earlier-model PictureMate,  take them with me on trips and hand them out to people I met. It was a great icebreaker. Those prints brought smiles to people’s faces. So now it was time to see if Epson’s latest iteration in this series would have the same effect. Spoiler alert: it did.
 
Very recently I led a group here in Chicago on a photo workshop. Toward the end of the day, I pulled a pack of 4x6 prints out of my vest pocket and shared some of my photographs with the group. I didn’t mention the printer I’d used. Instead I opted to wait for someone to ask. It didn’t take long, when the question popped up: What printer did you use? The Epson PictureMate PM-400, I responded with a smile. They were duly impressed.
 
I also used these prints at other photo workshops that I’d led locally - to illustrate photographic technique or just to give the group a feeling for what to expect, what they might photograph or how they might approach different subjects. Again, there was a round of positive responses. These prints made my pictures look good.
 
This approach was certainly easier than using my tablet. And I didn’t have to worry about a tablet slipping from my grasp or being knocked from my hands by an errant passerby. Not to mention, I didn’t own a tablet back when the PM-260 was around. But even now, I find it much easier to carry 4x6 prints. Someone even remarked that they look like postcards. I wasn’t initially sure what to make of that comment, but decided the reference was to the prints, not the images on them, so I took it as a compliment.
 
A Small Package, Big Potential
When the PM-400 arrived, I opened the box and looked at the unit. It was tiny, certainly compared with the old PM-260. Maybe half the height, generally smaller all around, and it proved to be much lighter. In fact, you basically had to carry the old printer with its handle. You can pick up the PM-400 with one hand and barely feel it.
 
But is size and weight alone enough to make you buy this printer? Certainly not. What’s more, you may be saying to yourself: I can get a letter-size photo printer at a much cheaper price? Of course you can, but, as you’ll see, this tiny printer offers numerous advantages.
 
There are many benefits, some of which this printer shares with its larger siblings, but in the end you have to look at the total package. You can use the PM-400 to print with or without your computer. Without the computer, just insert an SD card or USB flash drive into the appropriate slot or, using your own USB cable, connect a compatible USB device (including a PictBridge-compatible camera) into the USB port on the PM-400. Or print wirelessly from any supported device.
 
What’s more, the PM-400 is quieter than those full-size printers, which can be relegated to printing letters and manuscripts, or homework, while you print keepsakes on the PictureMate. And you can run off a batch of prints without disturbing anyone in the house, right from your living room, while watching The Walking Dead, and without missing a beat – that’s more than we can say for the zombies.
 
But we’re getting ahead of ourselves…

​Setting Up the PM-400
I set up the PM-400 to run with a 21.5-inch iMac, under OS 10.9.5. The computer is equipped with a 3.1 GHz Intel Core i7 processor and 16GB RAM.
 
Setup was a snap. Once you plug the PM-400 into an AC outlet via the included AC adapter, open the lid (the output tray then drops open – be sure to flip open the extension), lift up the LCD panel, turn on the device, and follow the on-screen prompts. It couldn’t be simpler.
 
At the outset you’re prompted to install the included printer cartridge. Even though the unit comes with a sample 4x6 print pack with only a handful of sheets, the cartridge itself is full capacity, enabling me to output a full 20-pack of 5x7’s and more besides. I also received a 100-capacity cartridge/4x6 paper pack with the review unit (not included in the retail edition), but didn’t want to crack open the box just yet. Epson also sent a box of 40 semi-glossy sheets (again, not included with the printer).
 
If you print 5x7’s or other sizes, you’ll throw off the cartridge/sheet ratio in that 100-capacity cartridge/paper pack, so you might consider buying the cartridge and paper separately. Just make sure the printer supports the paper you’re buying, which includes Epson Ultra Premium Photo Paper Glossy, Epson Premium Photo Paper Glossy, Epson Photo Paper Glossy, and Epson Premium Photo Paper Semi-Gloss. The one paper surface not supported is matte (which was supported on the old PM-260).
 
Other brands of photo paper can be used, but you may not get the image permanence benefits that come from the Epson cartridge-Epson paper matchup. As to popular sizes, they top out at 5x7, with a mix of formats thrown in, including #10 envelopes. Borderless printing is supported.
 
Loading Paper
One other advantage to this printer is that loading paper is as straightforward as it gets – no need to open the unit. Paper drops into the slot right behind the LCD/control panel. When inserting paper, gently use the edge guide to slide the paper toward the left edge in the slot. Once the edge guide is in place, you can drop paper into the slot without resorting to the edge guide, unless you change paper sizes.
 
Paper is always loaded with the printable (glossy) side up. (Epson papers show the Epson logo on the reverse, non-printable side.) You can load up to 20 sheets of photo paper. For envelopes, see the online manual. Make sure you're not stacking paper above the indicator on the inside of the edge guide.
 
Load paper with a portrait orientation, vertically. When printing directly from the PM-400, prints automatically orient themselves – portrait or landscape – to match the image being printed. When printing from the computer, you’ll need to manually make that selection up front, along with a number of other settings.
 
Printing with the PM-400
Printing with this device couldn’t be simpler. I printed wirelessly from my Apple iMac and iPad and directly from the printer itself, in standalone mode.
 
I used the network connection to output from the computer, primarily from Adobe Lightroom but also Photoshop. I had no problem printing from Lightroom, but did initially encounter a bump in the road with Photoshop. So I retraced my settings, step by step, and easily corrected the situation. Once I had the settings I needed, I saved them as a Preset for this printer. (In Lightroom, under the Print menu option, adjust settings under Print Settings or Printer on the Print page; in Photoshop, select Print and adjust settings. Each time you go to print from Lightroom or Photoshop, you may have to re-select the “scale” options, so make sure to do that; I also found it best to re-select the paper size, which then further selected “scale down only.” See the screen grabs.)
 
Each time you load paper into the printer, the PM-400 asks you to either confirm the current choice or to choose the paper you’re using. When printing from the device itself, in my case from a USB drive, I followed the prompts in selecting a number of images to print. It’s all fairly straightforward. The online manual should clear up any confusion about a scant few settings that may be unclear.
 
I was a little disappointed when printing wirelessly from my Apple iPad – not in the PM-400, but in Apple’s AirPrint. I could find no way to direct the printer to output other than borderless full-bleed prints, which tended to crop out some of the image area. But I was otherwise very pleased by the quality of the print.
 
Finishing Up
When closing shop, lower the LCD panel. Remove any unused paper and return it to its original packaging. Then return the tray to its original upright position – where have I heard that one before? - and hold it while lowering the lid with its magnetic closure. You can effortlessly achieve both motions with one hand, using your thumb to hold the raised tray in place (after restoring the extension to its original position as well).
 
You can see the screen shutting off even under the lid. And of course the indicator light on the front extinguishes as well.
 
By the way, each time you use the printer, you’ll get an annoying reminder on the printer’s LCD to register. Register and get rid of the message. 

​With few exceptions, and largely due to publishing demands, printer reviews are written rather hastily. I decided to take my time with this one to see how well this printer would do when left idle for weeks at a time. Usually that’s when you see problems crop up with the print heads. Well, the Epson SureColor P600 performed admirably right after I unpacked it and months later, after extended periods of idleness – without a hiccup, where the print heads were concerned. Ink delivery was always spot on, to borrow a British expression. And in contrast to some competitive products, installation was a breeze and operation went smoothly, for the most part. The only glitches lay entirely on my shoulders.
 
A Little Background
I’ve used Epson printers exclusively for many years. Some years back I reviewed the Stylus Photo R2880—an early predecessor to the new P600 in the 13x19-inch printer arena. And I fell in love with that printer. One of the things lacking, however, was wireless capability.
 
Both the R2880 and P600 are 9-ink cartridge systems, with one substantial difference—well, actually more than one, as you’ll soon see. The one particular feature that annoyed me when I worked with the R2880 was that I had to exchange ink cartridges – matte in place of photo black, or the other way around – when using matte or glossy paper, respectively. To top it off, I couldn’t feel assured that the removed cartridge would remain viable for long, despite being stored inside two zipped baggies.
 
Well, the new SureColor P600 remedies both situations. It features wireless connectivity. So now I don’t have to feel claustrophobic with a large desktop printer fencing me in or have to deal with tripping over overly long USB cables when the printer was positioned some distance away (or having to plug/unplug the cable each time I used the printer to get around that problem).

What’s more, this printer employs both matte and photo black inks as part of the 9-ink system—without you having to physically swap them out. Meaning, they both reside inside the printer, ready to go when called upon.

And there are of course numerous other improvements, not least of which is the new and improved ink set - Epson UltraChrome HD (it seems everyone likes to get in on the “HD” craze these days).
 
Features at a Glance

• Advanced media handling up to 13 inches wide – front-in and front-out paper path; print with a wide variety of media, including fine art papers; roll-paper printing for panoramas over 10 feet long (roll-paper holders included)
• New ink set with denser blacks – Epson UltraChrome HD pigment ink delivers black density richer than previous Epson pigment ink printers for the richest blacks
• Greater productivity with high-capacity cartridges – nine 25.9 ml pigment ink cartridges with auto-switching photo and matte black inks
• Versatility – prints on canvas, art boards, and CD/DVDs
• Intuitive interface – easy-to-use 2.7-inch tilting touch panel color LCD
• Optimized dot placement – for more precise dot placement and enhanced image quality
• Professional control – Advanced Black-and-White Mode for professional level neutral or toned B&W prints
• Enhanced connectivity – Apple AirPrint and Google Cloud Print support; USB 2.0; Wireless n, Wi-Fi Direct, and 100Mbit Ethernet

 
What’s Special About the P600
First, it’s sleekly styled yet unassuming in design, with functionality standing at the forefront. The very inviting interface consists of a control panel with three buttons and touch panel, making the P600 even less intimidating to first-time wide-format printer users than the R2880.
 
Second, it’s fairly easy to set up and use right out of the box. You don’t really have to know anything about inkjet printing to get started right away, although it does help to have an understanding of how to get prints to look the way you want them to. Everything went smoothly, from unboxing to setup and making my first print.
 
Third, the P600 features an Advanced Micro Piezo AMC print head with ink-repelling coating technology incorporated in the new ink set. The nozzles lay down ink with a minimum droplet size of 2 picoliters (compared with 3 picoliters on the R2880). And I can’t emphasize it enough: You no longer need to switch out photo and matte black – the printer automatically selects the correct ink (based on paper settings). You have to see the results for yourself to fully appreciate all of this.

​Setting Up the P600
Setting up the printer was a breeze. The toughest part probably was removing all the packing tape. Just follow the instruction sheet and you should be fine.
 
Ditto installing the print cartridges.
 
Except one thing: when inserting a cartridge, make sure you hear it snap into place. I initially installed them just short of that when I realized my mistake—it takes a bit more pressure to get the cartridge to go down all the way—click! Oh, and be sure to shake each cartridge (gently, you’re not on the dance floor) and be super-diligent to remove the yellow tape (hard to miss when it’s practically staring you in the face).
One more thing, if you’re new to inkjet printing, especially on Epson, be careful to not touch the green chip on each cartridge. That chip is how the printer communicates with the cartridge, and vice versa.
 
When setting up, once you plug in and turn the printer on, don’t leave it idle too long, or the display will black out. If and when that happens, don’t touch the screen if you haven’t completed the setup process. I made that mistake and ended up choosing German as my language. With a little backtracking, I managed to correct the error. Henceforward I learned to simply hit the power button to turn the display back on.
 
It does take the printer a few minutes to initialize for the first time, which includes charging the print head. But once that was done, I was ready to print.

​Printing with the P600: Auto Sheet Feeder
I can’t emphasize enough how effortless the process of printing was with the P600, at least when using auto sheet feed. That is, once I made one or two adjustments.
 
There were a few critical settings that I had to make in Lightroom and in the Epson printer software before printing: namely, setting paper type and size and setting Epson color management (managed by printer, not Adobe Lightroom, the software I used for printing). Using Epson color management follows Epson’s recommendation, and I have to say it was on the money. I was especially pleased with prints that featured good color depth, rich colors, and clean blacks and whites. There was no need to soft-proof when following this approach. (Some may argue with this.)
 
Printing on Fine-Art Paper: Manual Feed
This is where things can get a bit tricky. Nothing bad, only somewhat circuitous. Be sure to follow the instructions to the letter. The most prevalent problem I encountered was with the paper being fed askew (ever so slightly, I might add). I figured out a workaround: I place a finger along the edge of the paper to make sure it lies flush against the right side—with very gentle pressure, releasing as the paper starts to feed. (Manual feed is actually semi-automatic: once you’ve positioned the paper and directed the printer to move to the next step, the process once again becomes fully automatic.)
 
Once the paper is ready at the printer’s end, you can return to the computer and click Print (or make your settings, if you hadn’t already done so).
​
Don’t be intimidated. On-screen prompts (on the printer, not the computer) guide you step by step. Just be sure to position the paper with the print side up. If you get an error message after you hit Print on your computer, retrace your steps. In your software, make sure you’ve set the correct paper type, set “Matte” (where applicable), and set the applicable color management (for Epson papers, I used “Managed by Printer”). There was no need for Print Adjustment. Again, I’m using Lightroom CC for my printing.
 
Manual feed works with fine art media with a thickness ranging from 0.012 to 0.028 in. (0.3 to 0.7mm). Unfortunately, paper thickness on the package is given in “mil.” (Equivalent values in “mm” are given below.)

Working with Epson Papers
Epson sent a generous selection of papers, mostly letter-size, but also one 13x19 pack. A fellow photographer that I showed sample prints to was duly impressed by the output.

My recommendation is to limit switching back and forth between papers requiring different black inks. More to the point, gang all jobs that use either photo or matte black ink together, where possible. As it turns out, you waste considerable ink in the process, as Jon Canfield pointed out in his review of the larger Epson SureColor P800 on shutterbug.com. This would, of course, apply to any papers, regardless of manufacturer. By the way, the P800 would be a good desktop choice in a 17-inch printer if you don’t want to step all the way up to a floor-standing model but still want larger prints that the P600 can deliver.
 
The papers I tested, and which produced truly admirable and striking results, included the following. But what it really comes down to is this: You have to try each of these (and the other available Epson papers) for yourself. Choice of paper is always personal, although end use and subject may dictate or at least influence those choices.
 
Epson Photographic Papers (papers tested with photo black and auto-sheet feeder). Sheet size tested shown.
 
PERSONAL OBSERVATION: a good choice for everyday printing, although, of the three listed, I tend to favor the metallic media for their added depth.

• Ultra Premium Photo Paper Luster (letter-size & 13x19). 10 mil (= 0.254mm). USAGE NOTE: a more economical, all-around paper – really handy, especially if you’re handing out free or sample prints.

• Metallic Photo Paper Luster (letter-size). 10.5 mil (= 0.2667mm). USAGE NOTE: according to the guidelines that came with this paper, it should use the manual feed slot, although I had no problem using the auto-feeder. I like the look and feel of these metallic papers. It’s different.

• Metallic Photo Paper Glossy (letter-size). 10.5 mil (= 0.2667mm). USAGE NOTE: according to the guidelines that came with this paper, it should use the manual feed slot, although I had no problem using the auto-feeder. Choose Glossy if you prefer a slicker look.

 
Epson Fine Art Papers (papers tested with matte black and manual sheet feed). All tested papers were letter-size.
 
PERSONAL OBSERVATION: I love these papers! I don’t know why anyone would use papers from another manufacturer, especially given the fact that, in combination with the P600, prints come out deliciously rich without soft-proofing or profiling.

• Exhibition Watercolor Paper Textured (letter-size). 22 mil (= 0.5588). USAGE NOTE: you can fairly easily detect the printable side. It has a rough feel to it. The prints have a soft, painterly quality, but with a certain richness to them.

• Velvet Fine Art Paper (letter-size).  19 mil (= 0.4826). USAGE NOTE: I don’t know why Epson clearly labels some print packages as the printable side and not others. In this case, much more so than the watercolor paper, it’s difficult to discern the printable side – even by touch. When I have difficulty, I hold my papers up to the light at an angle to see which side looks more heavily textured – look for an embossed (stippled/dimpled) look. If that doesn’t work, a neat trick is to very mildly dampen thumb and index finger (saliva will do – apply to one finger then gently rub fingers together); next, hold the paper between these two fingers, pressing firmly, on one corner (supporting the rest of the sheet so it doesn’t bend). Whichever side really sticks – that’s the printable side. However, if you print full-bleed (borderless), this may mar the print in that corner, so proceed with caution. This is my favorite paper of those tested for this review. Prints have a tactile quality and beautiful depth, yet easily hold their crisp clarity.

• Hot Press Bright (letter-size).  18 mil (= 0.4572). USAGE NOTE: even though the package label identifies the printable side, both sides are printable (from information gleaned from other Epson websites). On the P600, select the option Ultrasmooth Fine Art paper.

 
You can find more information on Epson professional imaging media by clicking here.  
 
Epson also sent a couple of roll papers, but I didn’t have any panoramas that I felt worthy of using that much ink. When I do, I’ll update this review. (One of these rolls is canvas, and previous experience has taught me to be careful when using this substrate, to prevent clogging of print heads. So, even though it’s possible to simply print standard print sizes and manually cut as needed, I’m opting not to go this route.)